正文
全球十大“气味之城”
Limited to its peninsula, San Francisco's scent is as sharply defined as its borders: soft clouds, smooth pine, sharp eucalyptus, and cold ocean. Depending on where you go, you can add to that mix grass and the heather-like smell of scrub (the hills); old wood used in the housing stock (especially on the block where the Painted Ladies stand); and a weird dry dampness that is cool and a little isolating. Sometimes the city's perfume is mixed with the heady scent of dry California desert. It may be the most beautiful-smelling skyline in the world.
因为受到半岛地形的影响,旧金山的气味和它的边界一样分明:柔软的云,光滑的松木,锋利的桉树,和冰冷的海洋。你去往不同的地方,便会混合草和石南的气味;家用的历经沧桑的木材(尤其是那些脂粉聚集之处)的气味;奇怪的燥湿气味,凉爽又有些冷漠。有时,城市的气味还混合了干燥的加利福尼亚沙漠的醉人香味。它可能是世界上气味最棒的地方。
3. New Orleans 新奥尔良
In my opinion, you could win the debate over whether Florida is part of the South just based on its smell. (It's not.) Meanwhile, New Orleans exudes the South's signature perfume from every street corner. It's a thick, soporific scent of humidity penetrating wood porches and plaster walls; dead moss; and the Mississippi's fresh water colliding with the brine of the Gulf. Old beer, frying fat, mud, and lush grass are all in there, too.
在我看来,多数人仅根据气息便将佛罗里达划定为南方(其实它并不属于南方)。同时,新奥尔良的每个角落都流露出南方的典型气息,透过潮湿木材门廊和墙壁的一种厚重又具有催眠作用的气息;已死的青苔;密西西比河淡水与盐水相遇的海湾。老啤酒、油炸肥肉、泥以及茂盛的草丛也都在那里。
2. Pleasantville, NY 纽约欢乐谷
Money changes the smell of everything, and wealthy towns where people who want to flee New York's asphalt canyons go to have gardens and lawns have scents as restricted as the covenants guarding their real estate values. Maple, oak, and pine smell cyclically different as the seasons turn, and Pleasantville's scent is based on these trees and their leaves at all stages—green, yellow, dead brown, and budding. When you close your eyes you get grass and then the smell of "America as it was," whenever that might mean for your nose. If Normal Rockwell's paintings emitted a scent, this is what it would be.
金钱改变一切气味,富裕的城镇中,人们想逃离纽约这座柏油峡谷,这里的花园和草坪十分有限,气味十分有限。枫树、橡树和松树的味道随着四季的交替而不同,欢乐谷的气味和这些树以及所有生命阶段——绿色、黄色、枯萎以及刚刚萌芽的叶子息息相关。当你闭上眼睛,就能感觉到草丛,然后就能体会到“美国就是这个味儿”,如果诺曼·洛克威尔(Norman Rockwell)的画作会能散发出气味,那就一定是这种味道。
1. Los Angeles 洛杉矶
L.A. is one of the most bizarre places on Earth, and it has an equally singular smell. The clear, alluring track of its scent is arresting. There's the ocean breeze from Santa Monica that can travel as far East as Silver Lake; a dry desert air that comes West over Downtown and South Central; the astringent balm of eucalyptus, pine, honeysuckle, and jasmine from the hills; and car exhaust from catalytic converters, which is, in its strange industrial way, beautiful. It's like the jolt of a drug: shifting, comforting, cool like a blanket. The lonely smell of the marine layer burns off and you get this flashy perfume of hot asphalt, engines, and sun block that you can find nowhere but in L.A.
洛杉矶是世界上最奇异的地方之一,它同样有一种奇特的气味。清晰、诱人的气味十分吸引人。从圣莫妮卡吹来的微风能够将气味带到很远的地方;从西部中心地区和南方中部地区沙漠的带来的干燥空气;从山上吹来桉树、松树和金银花的酸涩芳香,还有茉莉花的芬芳;从汽车的催化转换器中排除的废气,带有一种怪异的工业美感。如同一味五味陈杂的药:不断变换又带来舒适的感觉。你可以嗅到澎湃的海洋带来的孤独气息,以及热沥青、引擎和防晒乳液的混合的味道,除了洛杉矶,没有任何地方拥有这种味道。
The Worst-Smelling 全球最差气味城市
Paris 巴黎
Let's just start off with the breath. The oral care standards of Parisians are utterly unlike any I've ever known. Thanks to their pack-or-more-a-day cigarette habits, every other person smells like smoke-cured human bacon. You smell coffee, but not the fresh stuff in the cup—the smell of it in someone's mouth four hours later. Then there's the repulsive odor that wafts from the RER train system. If Satan farted, it would be a little like this sulfurous cocktail of burning photocopies and fried electrical wires. Sure, the gourmand perfume of fresh croissants, butter, and baked flour spills onto the street. But take a few more steps and you're smacked in the face by the equally fresh smell of dog shit. If you close your eyes, you discover the marketing of Paris—that whole "city of light" garbage that's eagerly swallowed by tourists—is really nothing but a lie.
让我们从呼吸开始。巴黎人的口腔护理标准非常独特。幸好很多人有经常抽烟的习惯,其他人闻起来像熏过的人肉培根。你闻到咖啡,但不是盛在杯子里的新鲜咖啡,而是四小时后从某人的嘴里闻到咖啡的味道。还有巴黎地铁上令人作呕的气味。如果撒旦放屁,可能就是这种非常怪异的混杂气味。当然,街上还有新鲜的羊角面包、黄油以及烘烤面粉的味道。但是,多走几步之后扑面而来就是另一种恶心的味道。如果你闭上眼睛,就能发现巴黎的营销市场,吸引了大量游客的所谓“光之城”其实只是一个骗局。
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