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揭秘:8款风靡一时的牛仔裤 都是怎么流行起来的?
从高腰裤、阔腿裤到紧身裤、喇叭裤,牛仔裤的流行趋势不断变迁,一起来看看曾经风靡一时的8种牛仔裤潮流都是怎么兴起的。
1. ACID WASH 酸洗牛仔裤
The acid washing process has its roots in 1960s surf culture. According to CRFashionBook, the trend really took off in the 1980s, after Guess released “the first pair of ‘pre-washed’ bleach-splattered jeans.”
酸洗牛仔裤源于20世纪60年代的冲浪文化。据时尚杂志《CR》称,这款裤子是在20世纪80年代盖尔斯品牌推出了“第一条被洗出漂白斑块的牛仔裤”后真正流行起来的。
2. MOM JEANS 老妈牛仔裤
Just the term mom jeans conjures up an image of high-waisted rigid denim jeans with straight (but not tight!) legs. Supposedly, the high waist was meant to cover the tummy and prevent it from spilling over the top of the jeans, creating the dreaded muffin top—but usually, all it did was accentuate any visible fat and make you look frumpy to boot.
单是老妈牛仔裤这个名称就足以让人在脑海里浮现出硬挺的高腰直筒(非紧身)牛仔裤的画面。按理来说,高腰裤本意是遮住小肚子,防止讨厌的腰部赘肉堆在裤头上,但这种裤子却往往突出赘肉,还让你显得很土气。
muffin top: 腰部赘肉
to boot: 再者;除此以外
According to Emma McClendon, a fashion historian and the author of Denim: Fashion’s Frontier, “In the history of jeans as a garment, that high-rise, straight-leg, no-stretch-denim [template] is actually very typical.” That basic shape endured into the 1960s. The term mom jeans didn't become popular until 2003 (a.k.a., the era of super stretchy low-rise jeans) thanks to a Saturday Night Live sketch.
《牛仔裤:时尚先驱》的作者、时尚历史学家爱玛·麦克伦登指出:“无弹力的高腰直筒牛仔裤其实在服装史上一直是基本款。”这种款式到了20世纪60年代还很常见。老妈牛仔裤这一叫法是到2003年(超弹力低腰牛仔裤的时代)才流行起来的,这得感谢《周六夜现场》的一出短剧。
3. JNCO JEANS 阔腿牛仔裤
These ultra-wide, baggy pants featured briefly in the ‘90s teen movie Clueless as the signature look for skater guys—which was exactly who they appealed to at first, before they became so popular that they could be found pretty much everywhere. The jeans debuted in 1993 and eventually boasted leg openings up to 50 inches. After becoming incredibly popular in the '90s and then falling out of favor, JNCOs have been revived several times.
裤腿超宽的牛仔裤曾是上世纪90年代的青少年电影《独领风骚》中滑板少年的标志性装扮,这款牛仔裤最开始吸引的也是滑板少年,后来变得非常流行,简直随处可见。阔腿牛仔裤于1993年推出,后来裤腿设计得越来越宽,最后居然达到了50英寸(127厘米)。上世纪90年代,阔腿牛仔裤风靡一时,后来就逐渐失宠,之后阔腿裤潮流又屡次复兴。
4. SUPER-RIPPED JEANS 破洞牛仔裤
The first pairs of ripped jeans probably happened from actual wear and tear, and some have suggested that the trend of ripped jeans originated in the 1970s with punk bands. But eventually, the trend went way off the rails: Jeans with slashes up and down the legs could be bought new, often for exorbitant prices. Sometimes the tears went beyond rips to become full-on holes in the jeans.
第一条破洞牛仔裤很可能是穿久了磨破的,有些人指出,破洞牛仔裤的潮流源于上世纪70年代的朋克乐队。但后来这一潮流玩过头了,人们甚至会花高昂的价格去买一条从上裂到下的新牛仔裤。有的破洞牛仔裤上不止是有裂口,而是有大窟窿。
5. BELLBOTTOMS 喇叭牛仔裤
Bellbottoms may date as far back at the 17th or 18th centuries, when they were worn by sailors on American Navy ships (where they were eventually phased out in the years after World War II). Bellbottoms rose to prominence among youth of the 1960s as an act of rebellion.
喇叭牛仔裤或许可以追溯到17或18世纪,那时候美国军舰的海员就穿这种裤子(二战结束后喇叭裤逐渐被淘汰)。上世纪60年代,年轻人开始流行穿喇叭牛仔裤来表达自己的反叛。
6. DEMIN STIRRUP PANTS 马镫牛仔裤
It's likely that stirrup pants originated in jodhpurs, which were worn during horseback riding; those little pieces of fabric, and later elastic, were added in the 20th century. In the '80s, stirrup pants became a bonafide fashion trend, eventually being made in bright colors and denim.
马镫牛仔裤很可能起源于骑马裤,原本是在马背上穿的,20世纪开始在布料里加入弹性纤维。上世纪80年代,马镫裤真正开始流行起来,并改用颜色明亮的牛仔布制作。
7. DEMIN HOT PANTS 牛仔热裤
Denim hot pants are an extreme form of jean shorts where cheek coverage seems to be optional. According to CRFashionBook, the trend began with "short shorts" in the 1950s; then, at the end of the '60s, British designer Mary Quant designed hot pants. They had an inseam of a mere two inches. Hot pants were made from a variety of fabrics, including denim, and were worn by men and women alike.
牛仔热裤是一种超短的牛仔裤,你想多短就有多短。据时尚杂志《CR》称,这一潮流始于20世纪50年代的“超短裤”,后来在60年代末,英国设计师玛丽·匡特设计出了热裤。这款热裤的内接缝只有2英寸(5厘米)长。热裤用包括牛仔布在内的各种布料制成,男女皆可穿。
8. PLEATED JEANS 皱褶牛仔裤
Originally, according to Max Berlinger at Bloomberg, pleats in pants were "a practical design feature to increase comfort at the hip." The denim version of pleated pants became especially popular in the 1980s. Pleated jeans are making a comeback recently.
据彭博社的马克斯·柏林杰介绍,在过去长裤上的皱褶是“一种实用的设计特点,以增加臀部区域的舒适度”。20世纪80年代皱褶牛仔裤变得特别流行,近来也有复兴的迹象。