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英语散文:苏格兰的风情

2008-05-22来源:
 

Experiencing Scotland


Scotland is a unique and austere place, laden with history, where you can find aristocratic palaces and castles, as well as the traditional parades in national costumes. It has some of the most beautiful cities in Europe, a living testimony of a proud and splendid past.

  In order to see and discover the true soul of Scotland today, what forged the character of this splendid region, we have to go towards the northern regions, to the Grampian Mountains. Beautiful and unspoiled, it was difficult to farm. The Scots subdued the environment with simple spades and strong arms.

  The history of this ancient struggle, and its people’s ancient love affair with the hard land, is enclosed within the walls of the Angus Folk Museum. You are able to get a feel of the typical rural atmosphere of times past from the everyday artifacts displayed here.

  From coastal Aberdeen in towards the interior of the Grampian Mountains there runs the Castle Trail, a road that touches on many fortresses, which are witnesses of continual revolts against the dominion of neighboring England in Scottish history.

  Perhaps the most uplifting moment for Scottish autonomy is the one experienced inside this ancient abbey of Arbroath, where, in 1320; the Declaration of Independence was celebrated, at the instigation of King Robert the Bruce. He carried out the plan for autonomy drawn up by the great popular hero William Wallace, to whom cinema has dedicated the wonderful film "Braveheart", the winner of five Oscars.

  This is Glamis Castle. It is often remembered for being the residence of King Macbeth and Queen Elizabeth in her childhood. Among the most assiduous guests here are the inevitable ghosts, which are nourished, if not actually created, by ancient popular beliefs. These have been handed down over the centuries by a people inclined to live with mystery, with the forces of the supernatural.

  Another attraction here is a legendary monster: the Loch Ness Monster. Is it real or imaginary, this monster, which has been nicknamed Nessie, has collected a good 3000 sightings over the last 50 years? To fuel the debate about the monster, and perhaps also curiosity about the lake, a price of 500,000 pounds sterling has been put on Nessie’s head.

  The true flag of Scotland, tartan, is recognisable from the brightly coloured plaid patterns which are used to distinguish the various clans. Over the last few decades this fabric has made a comeback and is part of the daily life of this country.

  The typical Scottish garment, the kilt, is de rigeur when the Scots play the Great Highland bagpipes, especially when they march in parades.

  Bagpipes and dancing open the competitions of local sporting events, which are called Highland Gatherings. The games, which have strange rules, involve a spirit that has more to do with brute force than with athletics.

 

  苏格兰是一个独特的地方,自然条件虽不得天独厚,历史的厚重感却随处可见。豪门望族的府第与城堡历历在目,仪仗队的士兵也还穿着传统服装。这里有全欧洲最美的城市,诉说着苏格兰昔日的荣光。

  想看看真正的苏格兰,追寻这里民族精神的源泉,就得去北部的格兰扁山区。格兰扁山区景色怡人,还没有受到现代文明的污染。格兰扁一度不适合耕作,倔强的苏格兰人,凭着双手征服了这片土地。

  苏格兰先民的艰苦劳作与他们自古对这片贫瘠土地的眷恋,在这个博物馆里一览无余。这里展出的都是平常的物品,营造出往日乡间的氛围,使人油然而生怀旧之情。

  从沿海的阿伯丁,有一条古堡之路,一直蜿蜒到格兰扁山区深处。沿途很多昔日的要塞,都是苏格兰在历史上不断反抗英格兰统治的见证。

  苏格兰争取自治的过程中最大快人心的时刻莫过于1320年在这个修道院,布鲁斯国王鼓动百姓大肆庆贺独立宣言签订。布鲁斯采纳传奇英雄威廉·华勒斯所献的计策,完成了自治大业,这个故事后来被改编成电影《勇敢的心》,该片曾摘取了五项奥斯卡奖。

  这座城堡之所以名闻遐迩,却是因为曾经的两位主人——苏格兰国王麦克白与幼年时的伊丽莎白女王。如今这里最相看无厌的客人当数传说中挥之不去的幽灵,这些传说即使不是源于世代相传的民间故事,也大有借鉴化用的嫌疑。苏格兰人似乎生来就笃信超自然的力量,因此才有了这些传说。

  这里游人如织的另一个原因则是尼斯湖的怪兽。真假姑且不论,这个昵称Nessie的怪兽在过去的半个世纪中已经吸引了三千余名游客。如今它头上有五十万英镑的悬赏,使得学术界的争论日益激烈,或许也会令游人的好奇日盛吧。

  苏格兰格子呢是苏格兰真正的旗帜。它显著的花格子图案曾经是区分不同宗族的标志。在过去几十年里,格子呢在苏格兰再度流行,如今则已在日常生活中不可或缺。

  苏格兰传统的褶裙按照礼节是应该在演奏高地风笛时穿的,尤其是列队前进的时候。

  高地风笛与利尔舞揭开了高地运动盛会的序幕。运动会的比赛项目规则奇特,与其说是田径比赛,不如说是大力士的较量。

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