马德里欢快畅游36小时

西班牙首都,全国第一大城市,全国经济、交通中心,马德里省首府。市区面积607平方千米,人口约310.1万,包括郊区和卫星城镇在内,面积 1020 平方千米,人口约 452 万。
MADRID is once again a city for walkers. For five years, Mayor Alberto Ruiz-Gallardon's urban renovation project had turned much of the Spanish capital into a massive construction site. Sidewalks and roads were dug up; parts of the ring road on the city's outskirts were buried underground. But the recession and the end of the property boom have halted much of the ambitious face-lift. The mayor has postponed a plan to reorganize the traffic and pedestrian lanes running past the Prado — a move that would have felled dozens of trees. For the moment, the city's humanity has been restored.

Friday

4:30 p.m. 1) NEIGHBORHOOD RAMBLING

With its arches, balconies and painted facades, the Plaza Mayor, the 17th-century square where bullfights, trials and executions were once held, is the most splendid way to encounter Madrid. Ignore the arcades — full of flamenco-dancer refrigerator magnets and knee socks that say "Madrid" — and walk to the Plaza de la Paja. Peek into the Jardin del Principe de Anglona, whose brick-and-concrete walls hide the small garden with brick paths and pomegranate and almond trees within. Then stop for an herbal tea served in a Moroccan mug at the Delic cafe and bar (Costanilla de San Andres, 14; 34-91-364-5450; http://www.deliccafe.com/; no credit cards). A few steps away, see the two colored ancient Roman mosaics at the Museo de los Origenes, Casa de San Isidro (Plaza de San Andres, 2; 34-91-366-7415 ).

6 p.m. 2) ART FOR THE SOUL

Dash into the magnificently tiled San Francisco el Grande Basilica nearby (Plaza de San Francisco; 34-91-365-3800). The dome is bigger than that of St. Paul's Cathedral in London. But the real attraction is the painting of San Bernardino de Siena, one of the earliest of Goya's Madrid paintings. Goya painted himself into its right side. Also often overlooked are the paintings by Zurbaran and Velazquez.

9 p.m. 3) UPDATED CLASSICS

La Gastroteca de Santiago has not yet been discovered by tourists (Plaza de Santiago, 1; 34-91-548-0707; http://www.lagastrotecadesantiago.es/). The red-walled, white-tiled space is simple and modern, with glass doors offering a peek into the kitchen where Juan Carlos Ramos, the chef and owner, makes magic. The first courses are large enough to split. The menu changes often (with such offerings as terrine of pig tail and lobster or confit of goat with broad beans and mint). Two can dine — with wine — for less than 100 euros, $130 at about $1.30 to the euro.

The music is good, and the atmosphere is even better at the Cafe Central (Plaza del Ángel, 10; 34-91-369-3226; http://www.cafecentralmadrid.com/). With its high ceilings, mirrored pillars, marble-topped tables and Art Deco touches, it attracts the city's true blues and jazz lovers, who encourage the performers with loud applause and shouts of "Bravo!" They all seem to be the kind of people you'd like to get to know. Some of them smoke, however. Open until 3 a.m. or later Friday and Saturday nights.

Saturday

10:30 a.m. 5) SERENDIPITY AND CHAOS

Regalos Originales attracts serious postcard collectors, who patiently sift through the thousands of offerings — Italian postcards of Brigitte Bardot in the 1950s and 1960s are 50 cents (Calle Almirante 23; 34-91-308-1202). Ask for Silvia de la Torre or her parents, the owners. Try to persuade them to let you behind a curtain into the private rooms where the real treasures are to be found: shoeboxes filled with postcards from around the world, bookshelves of old movie posters, music boxes, oil paintings, toys, perfume bottles, cameras, thimbles, opera glasses, rosaries, cosmetic compacts, calendars, tins, all from another era. A half-century-old postcard of Niagara Falls in pastel colors is 5 euros; a poster for Dino De Laurentiis's "King Kong" (in Spanish) is 12.

1 p.m. 6) NO CHAIN STORES HERE

The corner of Almirante and Conde de Xiquena is the starting point for an adventure in and out of small boutiques. Laura Caicoya, 29, sells her fashion designs in a shop with her name (Conde de Xiquena, 12; 34-91-319-8099; http://www.lauracaicoya.com/). Her mother crochets and sews the feather-topped hats; her grandmother fashions collarlike necklaces out of raffia. Her sister's paintings hang on the walls. At Castañer, you'll find high-heeled, jeweled satin espadrilles to match your new Laura Caicoya dress (Almirante, 24; 34-91-523-7214; http://www.castaner.com/).

3 p.m. 7) NO PRADA WEARERS

For the newest alternative art space, visit Matadero Madrid, created by Madrid's City Council from the city's 100-year-old municipal slaughterhouse complex. The vast space is still a work-in-progress, part of Madrid's effort to stretch its cultural reach into the south part of the city. Lectures, films, concerts, art exhibitions — all are free (Paseo de la Chopera, 14; 34-91-517-7309; http://www.mataderomadrid.com/).