纽约:经济危机殃及餐饮业
New York's vaunted restaurant scene is in for some lean times, according to the newest Zagat survey released on Tuesday, with price hikes coming at a time when diners say they are eating out less often and spending less in the face of dire economic conditions.
"Restaurants are clearly feeling the pinch from the economic crisis," said Tim Zagat, founder of the survey now in its 30th year which bases its food, decor and service ratings for some 2,000 restaurants on feedback from restaurant patrons.
But he added that the industry would weather the hard times, just as it did following the 1987 stock market crash and the September 11 attacks.
The pullback was not limited to diners, either, the survey found. Restaurant openings declined for the first time since 2003, down to 119 from last year's 163, and 187 just three years ago.
Nearly 40 percent of the survey's 38,000-plus respondents said they were coping with the shaky economy by eating out less often, and by patronizing less expensive restaurants.
All this in a year in which Zagat found prices up 3.3 percent, or far more than the one percent annual hike that prevailed over the past six years. High-end diners were hit even harder, with a nearly 10 percent tab increase.
The average tab in New York was $40.78, still less than the steepest US total of $44.44 in Las Vegas, and far behind other world capitals such as Paris, Tokyo, and even Toronto.
The bracing findings were one explanation for a spate of new burger, pizza and barbecue places that popped up this year, the survey noted. Even celebrity chefs such as Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened bistros or noodle shops.
Any good news mostly centered around establishments that topped the ratings. Per Se nabbed the top spot for the first time for both food and service, with diners citing an "unforgettable, transcendental gastronomic marathon" -- with an average $303 tab to match.
The ratings cellar was once again reserved for theme restaurants like American Girl Place or Hard Rock Cafe, but celebrity hangout Elaine's scraped bottom with even lower marks for service and decor.
据Zagat调查公司本周二发布的一项最新调查显示,纽约的高档餐厅如今可是生意惨淡。受经济危机和物价上涨的影响,纽约人不再像过去那样经常“下馆子”,餐饮支出也有所减少。
该调查的发起人蒂姆.扎格特说:“餐饮业已明显感到经济危机的影响。”这项已有30年历史的年度调查主要根据食客的反馈评估纽约约2000家餐厅的菜品、装修和服务。
但扎格特认为,这次餐饮业最终会度过难关,就像挺过1987年的股市崩盘和“9/11”恐怖袭击一样。
此外,调查发现,少的还不仅仅是食客,今年纽约新开张的餐馆数量自2003年来首次下跌,从去年的163家减少至119家,而三年前则为187家。
在3.8万多受访者中,近40%的人称他们为了应对眼下的经济危机,已经不经常出去吃饭,或者选择去较便宜的餐馆就餐。
Zagat调查发现,今年纽约的餐饮物价整体上涨了3.3%,大大超过过去六年所保持的1%。其中高端消费者倍受打击,价格涨幅达到了近10%。
在纽约出去吃一顿饭平均花费为40.78美元,低于全美最高的、拉斯维加斯的44.44美元,比起巴黎、东京甚至多伦多等其它国家的首都则要低得多。
调查指出,这些“鼓舞人心”的发现可以解释为什么今年纽约冒出了很多汉堡店、皮萨店和烤肉店。就连阿兰.杜卡斯和希恩-乔治四.沃格里腾这样的名厨也开起了小酒馆或拉面馆。
好消息大都关于那些在评级中名列前茅的餐馆。Per Se首次摘得菜品和服务“双科冠军”,食客们对它的评价是“令人难忘、无与伦比的美食享受”,这家餐厅的平均消费为303美元。
主题餐厅“美国女孩”和“滚石咖啡”再次垫底,但名人会所Elanie’s 的服务和装修这两项指标得分更低,排在最后一名。
Vocabulary:
feel the pinch:感到手头拮据
bracing:令人振奋的
cellar:最后一名
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