毛衣起球怎么办 勿要用手指揪拽毛球

Hoping to add some polished knitwear to her wardrobe, Denise Anker spent several hundred dollars last fall on two Vince brand sweaters.
为了给自己衣橱里添置一些平滑光洁的针织衫，德妮丝・安克尔(Denise Anker)在去年秋天花了好几百美元买了两件Vince品牌的毛衣。

One, made entirely of cashmere, has held up well and Ms. Anker wears it regularly. The other, a wool-cashmere blend charcoal-gray cardigan -- and at $395 the more expensive of the two -- has shown troubling signs of a vexing winter wardrobe problem: pilling.
其中一件是纯羊绒质地的，一直保养得很好，安克尔也经常穿它。另一件则为羊毛、羊绒混织的炭灰色开襟衫，售价395美元（折合人民币2,392元），在这两件中也更贵──但它已显露出令人不安的种种迹象：起球──这是冬季衣橱中一个让人恼火的问题。

'After two wearings, it became a ragged mess,' says Ms. Anker, a 55-year-old resident of Big Oak Flat, Calif. Now she wears it only for casual occasions. It's the 'I want to roll around on the floor with my dogs' sweater, she says.
现年55岁、住在加利福尼亚州大橡树平地(Big Oak Flat, Calif.)的安克尔说：“穿了两年之后，它就变得破烂不堪、一团糟了。”现在，安克尔只在休闲场合才穿穿它。她还说，这件衣服成了那种“我想和我的狗在地上打滚儿”时穿的毛衣。

The pesky yarn clumps known as pills can form on garments of all materials and prices, from a high-end cashmere sweater to a bargain-priced acrylic blend. Pilling tends to get worse with more wear, which is why it always seems to occur on your favorite wool turtleneck and not the ones at the back of the closet.
从高档羊绒毛衣到廉价亚克力混纺品，所有材质和各档价位的衣服都会生出令人讨厌的纱团儿──也被称作起球。衣服穿的次数越多，起球就会越厉害，这也就是为什么你最钟爱的羊毛套头衫总是起球，而被扔在衣橱后面的衣服却不会变成这样的原因。

Pills form when yarn fibers in a garment break or become loose, or when the ends are exposed, and then tangle together. Sweaters commonly get pills because of their visible yarn, but nearly any knit or woven garment has the potential, says Sean Cormier, assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, who spent almost two decades in quality assurance at the former Liz Claiborne Inc.
纽约时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology in New York)的助理教授肖恩・科米尔(Sean Cormier)说，当一件衣服的纱纤维断了或变得松脱时，或当纤维头端露出于织物的表面时，它们就会互相缠结在一起。毛衣常常会起球，则是因为它们的纱线显露可见，但几乎任何一种针织或机织衣物都有起球的可能性。科米尔还曾在之前的丽诗加邦公司(Liz Claiborne Inc.)质量保证部门工作过近二十多年。

The unfortunate truth is that it's very difficult when looking at a garment in a store to predict whether it will pill. Pilling is what's known as a 'latent defect,' a problem that appears only after the product is in use. 'You don't see it until you wear it,' Mr. Cormier says.
不幸的事实是，当你在商店里打量一件衣服时，很难预测以后它会不会起球。起球一向以“潜在缺陷”而广为人知，这种问题只有当产品在使用时才会显现。科米尔说：“直到你把衣服穿在身上的时候，你才会看到这些毛球。”

Because friction begins or accelerates pilling, garment areas that are prone to rubbing, such as the side of the torso and the inside of the forearms, are likely to pill first, says Cathryn Lee, category manager of apparel care, at the Woolmark Co., which represents Australian wool growers. Men and women who carry shoulder bags will notice pilling on the shoulders. Seat belts may cause pilling across the chest.
羊毛标志公司(Woolmark Co.)是诸多澳大利亚羊毛生产商的代表，该公司服装护理部品类经理凯瑟琳・李(Cathryn Lee)说，这是因为摩擦会导致衣物起球或加速这一过程，衣服上那些容易受到揉擦的部位，比如说上身旁侧及前臂内侧，都可能会最先起球。那些使用肩包的男性和女性还会注意到衣物的双肩上正在起球。而座椅安全带则可能会导致衣物胸前部位起球。

The material used in a particular garment may provide hints as to whether it will pill. Merino wool tends to be strong and when used in a tightly wound sweater would be less likely to pill than fuzzy, fine-gauge cashmere, says Gwen Whiting, co-founder of the Laundress, a New York fabric-care company. But nearly every garment, regardless of make or brand, is a candidate.
一件衣物以后会不会起球，它所使用的材质可能会提供一些线索。纽约织品衣物护理公司Laundress的联合创始人格温・怀廷(Gwen Whiting)说，美利奴羊毛(Merino wool)一般比较结实，当用这种材质来编织一件紧实的毛衣时，与毛茸茸的细针织羊绒衫相比，前者就不太会起球。但几乎每一件衣物，不管它是什么材质、来自哪个品牌，都有可能会起球。

With natural raw materials like cashmere, the length of the fiber is particularly important. Longer fibers can be wound into tighter yarn, making it less likely the ends will come loose, says Karl Spilhaus, president of the Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute.
羊绒与驼绒生产商协会(Cashmere and Camel Hair Manufacturers Institute)会长卡尔・斯皮赫斯(Karl Spilhaus)说，像羊绒这样的天然原材质，纤维的长度就格外重要。长一些的纤维能纺成更紧实的纱线，令其头端更不易松脱。

'Pilling is going to happen with any woven garment but there is a direct link to the length of the yarn thread used,' Thomas Ott, senior vice president for men's apparel at Saks Fifth Avenue, says. 'The longer the thread, the longer it takes to pill.'
萨克斯第五大道精品百货店(Saks Fifth Avenue)男装部高级副总裁托马斯・奥特(Thomas Ott)说：“任何机织服装都会起球，但这与所用纱线的长度有着直接的关系。纱线越长，衣物也能穿更久才起球。”

Today's extremely price-competitive climate is pushing many manufacturers toward shorter, less expensive fibers, Mr. Spilhaus says.
斯皮赫斯说，如今，价格竞争极其激烈，这种风气正促使许多生产商转而使用更短、没那么贵的纤维。

The finish of a garment also affects the likelihood of pilling. A cashmere sweater used to require several home washings before it 'bloomed' -- the industry term for the soft, full feeling of a broken-in sweater.
衣物的最后加工步骤也会影响起球的可能性。过去，一件羊绒毛衣需要买回家洗几次以后才会变得“容光焕发”──行业术语，指一件毛衣上身久了之后变得柔软贴身的感觉。

Retailers and shoppers are looking for sweaters with a 'hand feel' of extreme, immediate softness. Mr. Spilhaus says manufacturers wash garments repeatedly to get the exterior that soft. The washing, along with shorter fibers, brings the ends to the surface more quickly, making pills more likely to happen sooner.
零售商与购物者都在找寻那些“手感”极其柔软、上身之后立马就软贴贴的毛衣。斯皮赫斯说，为了让衣物外观变得那样柔软，生产商们都在反复清洗衣物。如此这般的清洗，再加上使用越来越短的纤维，这些因素致使纤维头端更快地露出于织物表面，也使衣物更易快速起球。

Retailers, regardless of price point, say they take steps to prevent pilling. Uniqlo, which sells moderately priced sportswear, says it uses a pill-reducing treatment on its worsted merino-wool sweaters. Luxury knitwear maker Brunello Cucinelli sends employees along with importers to meet with Mongolian shepherds when selecting cashmere for its annual production.
撇开价格点不谈，零售商说，他们正在采取措施、以防衣物起球。出售中档价位运动装的优衣库(Uniqlo)称，它在自家精纺的美利奴羊毛毛衣上就用了一种去毛球法。而一到了为每年生产商品采集羊绒时，奢华针织品制造商布鲁奈罗・库奇内利 (Brunello Cucinelli)就会将员工与进口商一道派去会见蒙古牧羊人。