正文
时尚准妈妈怀孕时该对待自己小腹
AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS earlier this month, Kerry Washington, the star of the ABC-TV series 'Scandal,' wore a lilac Jason Wu gown, tailor-made to accommodate what she playfully called her little 'accessory'-a growing baby bump.
在3月份早些时候举行的奥斯卡金像奖颁奖典礼(Academy Awards)上,美国广播公司(ABC)电视剧《丑闻》(Scandal)中的明星凯丽・华盛顿(Kerry Washington)穿了一条吴季刚(Jason Wu)设计的淡紫色礼服,衣服根据她日渐隆起的小腹量身定制,华盛顿戏称大肚子是自己的小“配饰”。
These days, that's just how stylish mothers-to-be are treating their bellies when it comes to dressing: as an exciting accouterment rather than an insurmountable style obstacle. These resourceful women are mixing non-maternity pieces from surprisingly pregnancy-friendly labels such as Alexander Wang and Rick Owens with a chicer-than-ever crop of maternity brands.
如今,时尚准妈妈在穿衣服时就是这样对待自己的小腹的:把它当成是有趣的装饰,而不是阻碍时尚的麻烦。这些聪明的准妈妈们把亚历山大・王(Alexander Wang)和瑞克・欧文斯(Rick Owens)等特别照顾孕妇需求品牌的非孕妇单品和孕妇装品牌的时髦剪裁进行混搭。
'When you're pregnant, your body is changing every day. The fashion just has to be able to evolve to fit that,' said Ms. Washington. In addition to custom-designed gowns from Thakoon and Balenciaga, the actress has worn maternity pieces, like a silk charmeuse tuxedo from the very un-maternity maternity label Hatch, as well as designer dresses she buys in large sizes and alters, like an A-line shift by Tory Burch and a cerulean Calvin Klein Collection cocktail number with a peek-a-boo shoulder. 'Pregnant or not, your tailor is your best friend,' said Erin Walsh, Ms. Washington's stylist, who added that the key to a flattering alteration (besides accommodating a growing midsection) is to accentuate the finer points of one's figure-whether wrists, cleavage or legs.
华盛顿说:“怀孕的时候,你的身体每天都在变化。时尚必须能够不断演变来适应这种变化。”除了塔库恩(Thakoon)和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的定制礼服,她还穿孕妇装,比如非常不像孕妇装的孕妇装品牌Hatch的一套查米尤绉缎燕尾服,她还会买大号的名牌裙子来修改,比如Tory Burch的一条宽松连身裙和 Calvin Klein Collection的一件露肩天蓝色鸡尾酒会装。华盛顿的造型师埃琳・沃尔什(Erin Walsh)说:“无论是否怀孕,你的裁缝师都是你最好的朋友。”她还说,除了适合越来越大的肚子,改出好衣服的关键在于突出身体的细节──比如手腕、乳沟或者小腿。
In the age of the Best-Dressed Baby Bump, it's hard to fathom that Lucille Ball caused a scandal when she appeared pregnant on 'I Love Lucy,' in 1952, or that Grace Kelly used her Hermès bag to shield her growing body from the press. 'Things have changed so much over the last few decades,' said Violet Gaynor, a senior fashion editor at Instyle.com and co-founder of the Glow, a website that features at-home interviews with chic mothers like actress Jemima Kirke and Manhattan boutique owner Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Ms. Gaynor and her co-founder, Kelly Stuart, will be releasing the Glow's first book in April. 'There's so much more of a celebration about being pregnant,' she added, 'and more of a focus on stylish motherhood.' Websites like the Glow offer mothers plenty of fashion inspiration-often with shoppable links.
在比拼最佳孕妇着装的年代,很难想像1952年露西尔・鲍尔(Lucille Ball)怀着身孕出现在《我爱露西》(I Love Lucy)中会引发丑闻,也很难理解格蕾斯・凯丽(Grace Kelly)会在媒体面前用她的爱马仕(Herms)手袋遮住日渐隆起的肚子。Instyle.com高级时尚编辑及Glow网站联合创始人维奥莱特・盖纳(Violet Gaynor)说:“这几十年来变化太大了。”Glow上有很多对时尚妈妈所作的家庭采访,比如演员杰米玛・科克(Jemima Kirke)和曼哈顿精品店店主玛丽亚姆・纳西尔・扎德(Maryam Nassir Zadeh)。盖纳和她的联合创始人凯丽・斯图尔特(Kelly Stuart)将会在4月发布Glow的第一本书。她说:“现在怀孕更多是一种庆祝,更多的关注点在时尚备孕。”Glow这样的网站会为孕妇提供大量时尚灵感──通常都会有购物链接。
As the average age of first-time mothers continues to climb and the number of women having children in their 30s and 40s rises, ladies with a well-developed sense of fashion see no reason to sacrifice personal style when they're expecting. And the fashion industry is responding.
随着首次怀孕女性的平均年龄持续增大,三四十岁怀孕女性的人数越来越多,有着成熟时尚感的女性认为怀孕时没有理由牺牲掉个人着装风格。时尚行业也在做出回应。
'There is this group of women who have more disposable income to spend. They have their own identity and style and are really looking to preserve that,' said Courtney Klein, a former partner at a Manhattan digital agency who recently launched Storq, a collection of layerable, curve-hugging basics designed to fit into women's existing wardrobes-not replace them altogether. Storq's stretchy modal pieces-skirt, dress, leggings, tank top-can be purchased separately, or as a complete set for $195, on the brand's website. Ms. Klein, who is 28 weeks pregnant herself, has already shipped orders to 30 states.
曼哈顿某数字广告公司前合伙人考特妮・克莱恩(Courtney Klein)说:“有一群女性有用不完的可支配收入。她们有自己的身份和风格,而且非常希望能保持。”克莱恩最近推出了可分层穿的紧身基本款服装品牌Storq,这些衣服旨在融入女性现有的衣橱,而非取代所有的衣服。在Storq的网站上,弹性莫代尔单品──半身裙、连身裙、打底裤、背心──可以分开购买,也可以以195美元的价格购买整套。克莱恩自己已怀孕28周,公司的订单已经发往了30个州。
Ms. Klein is just one of the entrepreneurs helping to rewrite the script for pregnancy dressing. Ariane Goldman, who founded the label Hatch in 2011, said the word 'maternity' is taboo in her office. 'I think all of us just associate 'maternity' with disposable pieces that will get you through this icky stage and that you'll never want to wear again,' said Ms. Goldman. Instead, Hatch aims to provide pieces-at prices similar to what one may pay at, say, A Pea in the Pod, where many dresses hover around the $200 mark-that will live on in a woman's wardrobe after pregnancy. The appeal of Hatch's silky jumpsuits, gaberdine trenches and flowing dresses is apparent, whether a customer is pregnant or not.
克莱恩仅仅是众多帮助重组孕妇装行业格局的创业家中的一位而已。2011年创立Hatch品牌的阿里亚纳・戈德曼(Ariane Goldman)说,“怀孕”这个词在她的办公室是禁忌。戈德曼说:“我觉得大家都把‘怀孕’和一次性衣服联系起来了,认为这些衣服只是帮你度过这个难熬的阶段,然后就再也不会穿了。”而Hatch则是为女性提供能在孕期结束后继续留在衣橱里的衣服,其价格和孕妇装品牌A Pea in the Pod差不多,该品牌的很多衣服都在200美元左右。无论怀孕与否,Hatch真丝连体衣、华达呢风衣和飘逸长裙的吸引力都是显而易见的。
Ms. Gaynor said the fashionable mothers she has featured on the Glow taught her the value of an 'anything goes' approach. 'They like to find what works for them and just go with it,' she said, 'even if it's not a traditional approach to maternity.' For Ms. Gaynor, whose daughter was born last summer, that meant not only investing in the ubiquitous J. Brand maternity jeans, but resurrecting favorite pieces from her closet, like a generously cut Emilio Pucci dress that once belonged to her grandmother. Another of her favorite looks was a long white Alexander Wang slip dress, which she bought a few sizes too big, that wraps under the bust.
盖纳说,Glow上的时尚准妈妈们让她知道了“随意搭”穿衣风格的价值。于去年夏天生下女儿的她说:“她们喜欢研究自己穿什么好,然后就会那样穿,即使那并不是传统的孕妇着装。”对盖纳来说,这意味着不光要买普适的J. Brand孕妇牛仔裤,还要从衣橱里挖出自己最喜欢的衣服,比如曾经属于祖母的一条剪裁宽松的璞琪(Emilio Pucci)连身裙。她最喜欢的装扮还有一条亚历山大・王的裹胸吊带裙,这条裙子她买大好几个尺码。
'There's something reassuring about still being able to shop in a regular store when you're pregnant,' said Meredith Melling, who recently left her longtime post as a Vogue editor to co-found the fashion consultancy firm La Marque. Ms. Melling, whose second child is due this weekend, said she has relied on American Apparel unitards and oversize cardigans, as well as items from Zara, which she buys big and has tailored to fit her growing body. For special events, Ms. Melling swears by vintage clothing. Unlike with current-season wares, she said, there are no preconceptions about styling or fit and little risk of another (un-pregnant) woman appearing in the same dress. However, for the very special occasion of the La Marque launch in January, Ms. Melling wore a current Marc Jacobs dress with a drop-waist-a universally flattering silhouette for party-going pregnant gals. 'It was a way to feel a bit more elevated, like my former fashion self,' she said.
梅雷迪思・梅林(Meredith Melling)最近刚辞掉做了很久的《时尚》(Vogue)编辑工作,与他人合伙创立了时尚咨询公司La Marque。她说:“怀孕的时候还能在普通商店里买衣服,给人一种很安心的感觉。”第二个孩子刚刚出生的梅林说,她喜欢American Apparel的连体紧身衣和大号开衫,还有Zara的单品,她会买大号,然后进行修改,以适应自己的体型变化。参加特殊活动时,梅林很信赖复古服装。她说,和当季时装不同,复古风格没有款式或合身的先入之见,而且与其他(未怀孕)女士穿同一条裙子的可能性也不大。不过,在1月份La Marque成立的特殊场合,梅林穿了一条当季的马克・雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)低腰裙──这种款式对参加派对的孕妇来说很讨喜。她说:“这样会让自己觉得更高贵些,就像以前那个时尚的自己。”
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