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风水轮流转:迷你裙的强势回归
和鞭炮还有某些儿童玩具一样,很多迷你裙的标签上都应该有警示说明。上班族:小心这是容不得任何出错余地的裙子。如果你的裙子在你从座位上起身时必须得往下拉一下,那就可能会让自己和同事分心。买之前在试衣间测试一下。坐下、扭动、站起来,反复三次。如果裙子需要“管教”才能“保持规矩”,那就换其他款式。
Leggings under a mini can look fresh while solving myriad ills from the over-reveal to unsightly skin. But they lend a casual attitude that may clash with formal offices or occasions.
迷你裙配打底裤看起来会比较清爽,同时还能解决暴露过多和皮肤难看等问题,但打底裤会营造出随意的感觉,可能会和比较正式的办公室等场合不相配。
Pairing a sexy mini with platform high heels can easily veer into lady-of-the-evening territory. Chunky heels on boots or low pumps, on the other hand, can lend a mod look to the outfit. So can kitten heels. Contrary to myth, high heels don't actually make minis shorter, but they do place more focus on the legs and enhance the rear end.
性感迷你裙搭配厚底高跟鞋会很容易给人低俗的感觉。粗跟靴子或浅口皮鞋则会给整个装扮带来60年代摩登风格的感觉,中跟鞋也一样。和普遍看法不同,高跟鞋其实并不会让迷你裙显得更短,但是的确会把更多的关注点放在腿上,并且让臀部更突出。
Minis have come and gone and come again since the 1960s. Designers love to switch directions in their pursuit of something new. Mr. Valli notes that this is his second round with minis since launching his label nine years ago. 'The great thing about fashion,' he says, 'is that season after season you can express one thing and the next collection its contrary.'
从1960年代开始,迷你裙来了又走,走了又来。设计师在追求新东西时喜欢更换方向。瓦利表示这是他九年前推出自己的品牌以来第二次设计迷你裙。他说:“时装行业的好处是,不同的时装季可以表达完全不同的东西。”
When high-fashion hemlines dropped to the shin several years ago, some people attributed the shift to conservative feelings engendered by the financial crash and ensuing recession. Others pointed the finger at Janie Bryant, costume designer of the television show 'Mad Men,' which capitalized on a growing national obsession with midcentury modern style.
几年前高档裙装长度长至小腿时,有人把这种转变归因于金融危机及随之而来的衰退带来的保守情绪。还有人认为是詹妮·布赖恩特(Janie Bryant)的问题。她是电视剧集《广告狂人》(Mad Men)的服装设计师,这部剧抓住了人们对上世纪中叶现代风格日益迷恋的情愫。
Whatever the cause, by the time designer Raf Simons made the fashion world swoon with a '50s Dior-esque collection for Jil Sander of wasp-waist, shin-length confections in February 2012, dresses required extra yardage.
无论是何种原因,当设计师拉夫·西蒙斯在2012年2月让时尚界对其为吉尔·桑达(Jil Sander)设计的蜂腰、长及小腿肚的50年代迪奥风格精美时装系列而赞叹不已时,最受欢迎的还是长裙。
The pendulum began to swing the other way about a year ago when Mr.Slimane put miniskirts and short baby doll dresses on Saint Laurent's runway in March 2013. They looked so short that critics shrugged and predicted they would never sell. A few months later, the dresses could be seen disappearing into the dressing rooms at the trend-forward boutique Maxfield in Los Angeles.
大约一年前,斯理曼在2013年3月的 罗兰时装秀上展出迷你裙和洋娃娃短裙时,天平开始向另一边倾斜。这些裙子太短了,于是评论人士不以为然,预测这些裙子不会畅销。几个月后,在洛杉矶潮流先锋精品店Maxfield,它们成了顾客们最爱试穿的衣服。
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