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为什么美国人喜欢戴帽子
凯莉•克里斯蒂(Kelly Christy)是美国设计师,她的作品已在纽约史密森•库珀-休伊特国家设计博物馆(Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum)成功展出,还曾为黛安•冯芙丝汀宝(Diane Von Furstenberg)与辛西娅•罗利(Cynthia Rowley)设计过帽子。克里斯蒂说:近几年经济低迷后,各种帽子(既包括软呢帽等经典款式,也包括奇形怪状的帽子)作为既时髦又实惠的配饰卷土重来。“如今所有人都在穿戴它——演员、音乐家、模特,不一而足;它们让时尚行头成为完美的整体,如今更成了时尚主流。”
Ellen Goldstein, a professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, would agree: “Hats are a way of easing into a fashion statement.” She notes that more Americans are wearing hats to the races and to weddings, as well as in everyday wear, with men in particular routinely wearing baseball caps and short-brimmed fedoras.
艾伦•戈尔茨坦(Seth Goldstein)是纽约美国时装技术学院(Fashion Institute of Technology)教授,他赞同克里斯蒂的观点:“帽子慢慢成了展示时尚风格的方式。”她如今注意到越来越多的美国人日常戴帽外,还戴着它们去参加赛事及婚礼,其中尤以男士为甚,他们经常戴着棒球帽以及窄边软呢帽。
Gabriela Ligenza, another London-based hat designer (see “Boffin tops” below), says Britain’s image as a hat-wearing nation had remained strong, thanks to the influence of figures such as Isabella Blow. “British milliners are slightly quirkier and more daring, but without becoming ridiculous,” she notes.
另一位伦敦帽子设计师加布丽埃拉•利津察(Gabriela Ligenza,参看下图中的“Boffin”帽)说:归功于伊莎贝拉•布罗等时尚达人的影响力,英国作为喜欢戴帽的国家形象依然非常坚不可摧。“英国的帽子设计师稍微有些离经叛道,而且更加敢于创新,但还没有到荒谬绝伦的地步,”她说。
The message, reinforced by such style icons and prolific hat-wearers as Daphne Guinness, Anna Dello Russo and Paloma Faith, who has worn Ligenza’s hats, is that “your outfit really isn’t quite finished without a hat”.
因此,在达芙妮•吉尼斯(Daphne Guinness)、安娜•戴洛•罗素(Anna Dello Russo)以及帕洛玛•费丝(Paloma Faith)等众多喜爱帽子的时尚名媛推波助澜下,如今传达出的时尚信息是:“没有帽子的点缀,您的行头真是美中不足”。
What’s more, as Ligenza points out, fascinators are no longer allowed in the Royal Enclosure at Ascot, which has stimulated demand for contemporary designs.
而且更重要的是,正如利津察所言,如今皇家阿斯科特赛马场已禁止戴着头巾进入,此举大大刺激了当代风格的帽子需求量。
Piers Atkinson, also based in London designs fun, arty hats in the shape of cream slices and cherries for customers in Melbourne, Dubai and Britain. He believes there has never been a better time for talented young designers, and points to the British Fashion Council’s “Headonism” showcase, an initiative to promote young milliners that runs during London Fashion Week in September.
另一伦敦女帽设计师皮尔斯•阿特金森(Piers Atkinson)参照奶油蛋糕与樱桃形状,为墨尔本、迪拜以及本国的客户设计了妙趣横生、附庸风雅的帽子。他认为如今这个时代是才华横溢设计师的黄金时代,并以英国英国时装协会(British Fashion Council)设立的“Headonism”展览室项目为例证明。该项目旨在提携年轻的帽子设计师参加今年九月举办的伦敦时装周(London Fashion Week)。
Also showing at Headonism will be Awon Golding, who grew up in England, Hong Kong and India. This year her designs include eye-catching pieces for Ascot such as one in the shape of an ice-cream cone, complete with scoops of soft ostrich feather pom-poms.
Headonism展览室还展出了阿翁•戈尔丁(Awon Golding)设计的帽子,戈尔丁分别在英国、香港以及印度生活过。今年,她设计的作品包括了阿斯科特赛马会上那顶引人注目的蛋卷冰淇淋外形帽子,连同勺子状的软鸵鸟羽毛绒球帽。