致不爱做饭的你

As the high priestess of family cooking, Jenny Rosenstrach, author of "Dinner: A Love Story" and “Dinner: The Playbook," aims to bring about conversions in her readers and not just chronicle her own. In the opening to "Dinner: A Love Story," Rosenstrach recounts how a friend broke down in tears admitting that she never once cooked for her children. This is evidently not the first such overwrought disclosure with which Rosenstrach has been entrusted.
《晚餐：一个爱的故事》和《晚餐：游戏手册》(Dinner: The Playbook)的作者、家庭烹饪的女祭司珍妮·罗森施特拉赫(Jenny Rosenstrach)不仅记录自己的转变，还想让她的读者们也发生转变。在《晚餐：一个爱的故事》的开头，罗森施特拉赫提到一个朋友承认自己从未给孩子们做过饭时流下了眼泪。这显然不是罗森施特拉赫听到的第一个过于伤感的倾诉故事。

"No one has it all together," Rosenstrach observes, with gentle condescension. The typical mom, she believes, too often sees dinner as "a referendum on her own self-worth." Alas, for me, Rosenstrach's path out of guilt is not to drop the guilt but to drop the no-cooking. You must start, as her sobbing friend did, with Rosenstrach's introductory absolution. Don't "put so much pressure" on yourself, she writes, elsewhere assuring the reader, only slightly facetiously, that mothers who don't dine nightly with their children won't necessarily make them "meth addicts." So that possibility is out there, too.
“谁都不是一下子学会的，”罗森施特拉赫带着几分优越感写道。她认为，有太多母亲视晚餐为“自我价值的全民公决”。天哪，对我来说，罗森施特拉赫的方法非但没能让我不再愧疚，反倒让我再不想做饭了。像那位哭泣的朋友一样，你得先获得罗森施特拉赫的宽恕。她写道，不要给自己“太大压力”，她还在其他地方半开玩笑地安慰读者，就算你不是每天跟孩子们共进晚餐，他们也不一定会变成“瘾君子”。也就是说，他们还是有可能变成瘾君子的。

After that thin buck-up speech, you're encouraged to embrace Rosenstrach's strategies for cutting up onions and enlightening picky eaters, along with her recipes for Sweet Barbecue Salmon and Beluga Lentil Soup With Anchovies. That is the way out of wretchedness and into grace. Dinner: Go and Sin No More.
在难以令人信服的动员讲话之后，罗森施特拉赫鼓励你用她的方法切洋葱，满足挑剔的食客，尝试她的菜谱——甜味烤三文鱼和白鲟凤尾鱼扁豆汤。那就是从悲惨走向恩惠的方式。晚餐：做吧，不要再愧疚了。

Figuring I wasn't going to experience a spiritual revelation about the sanctity of family dinners at this late stage, I dropped the conversion-narrative books in favor of some that sound like brass-tacks science. "Super Nutrition for Babies: The Right Way to Feed Your Baby for Optimal Health," by Katherine Erlich, M.D., and Kelly Genzlinger, C.N.C., C.M.T.A., with a foreword by David Brownstein, M.D., author of "Overcoming Thyroid Disorders," seemed with all those enigmatic letters to fit the bill. As did "Super Baby Food: Your Complete Guide to What, When and How to Feed Your Baby and Toddler,” by Ruth Yaron. (Dr. Alan Greene calls the original "Super Baby Food" a "monumental breakthrough.”)
我知道自己不会在这么大年纪对家庭晚餐的神圣产生顿悟，所以我放弃了这些描述思想转变的书，转向一些听起来像基本科学事实的书。《婴儿超级营养：为实现婴儿最佳健康的正确喂养方法》(Super Nutrition for Babies: The Right Way to Feed Your Baby for Optimal Health)似乎具有符合条件的所有神秘字眼。这本书是医学博士凯瑟琳·埃尔利赫(Katherine Erlich)和注册营养顾问、注册代谢类型顾问凯利·金兹利杰(Kelly Genzlinger)编著的，《战胜甲状腺功能紊乱》(Overcoming Thyroid Disorders)一书的作者、医学博士大卫·布朗斯坦(David Brownstein)为该书撰写了前言。另外还有露丝·亚龙(Ruth Yaron)的《超级婴儿食物：喂养婴幼儿的完全指南》(Super Baby Food: Your Complete Guide to What, When and How to Feed Your Baby and Toddler，艾伦·格林[Alan Greene]博士称具有原创性的《超级婴儿食物》是“不朽的突破”）。

These books remind me of the extruded foodstuffs in packages festooned with the names of medical doctors that real-food ideologues now counsel against. You can really taste the research. But the books, unlike Clif bars, didn't help me skip any steps. In fact, they introduced many, many new steps, including making yogurt.
这些书让我想起了那些遭到排挤的盒装食品，它们上面提到的医学博士如今遭到真正食物理论家的批判。但是那些研究结果你真的可以细细l你攻略。但是这些书，不像克利夫能量棒，不能帮我省去任何步骤。实际上，它们还介绍了很多很多新步骤，包括做酸奶。

D.I.Y. is Ruth Yaron's way. "After years of trying to find the easiest, most effective and 'least dishes to wash' method of making yogurt," Yaron came up with a regime that involves organic soy milk enriched with calcium and vitamin D, dry milk powder, a yogurt thermometer, a "homemade yogurt towel bag," yogurt starter, a small sterilized glass baby-food jar, sterilized utensils and about six hours from start to finish. Another hot tip for the new mom making yogurt in her down time: Make sure you don't bake bread on the same day, lest the yogurt is invaded by airborne yeast particles. That's interesting. When I discovered my own easy, effective and "least dishes to wash" method of procuring yogurt — buy it — it took me only 15 minutes, with no worry about yeast invasion. Maybe I'm doing something right after all.
露丝·亚龙的方法是自己动手做。“多年来，我一直努力寻找最简单、最有效、占用厨具最少的做酸奶的方法”，后来她想出了一个方法，需要用到有机豆奶、钙、维生素D、干奶粉、酸奶温度计、“自制酸奶毛巾袋”、酸奶发酵剂、无菌玻璃婴儿小食品罐和无菌餐具，从头到尾约需六个小时。新妈妈在休息时间做酸奶的另一个可靠小贴士是：一定不要在同一天烤面包，否则酸奶会被空气中的酵母微粒入侵。有意思。我在寻找简便、有效、占用厨具最少的获取酸奶的方法时想到的是购买，只用花15分钟时间，而且完全不用担心酵母入侵。也许我终于有一点做对了。

In "Super Nutrition for Babies," D.I.Y. is not celebrated for its own sake. Rather it is a paranoid strategy for those who live in terror of the Toxins. The book argues that there is a war on children's health going on, and that the enemy army includes pesticides, pollution, heavy metals, medications, industrial waste, chemicals, bad tap water, dyes, artificial ingredients, preservatives, sugar, refined grains, antibiotics and wrong ratios of macronutrients. As budding foot soldiers for health, mothers are taught to fear food that is Chemical, Removes body's nutrients, is Addictive and Processed. CRAP, in the book's scheme. Everywhere.
在《婴儿超级营养》中，自己动手制作是因为考虑到其他因素。那些生活在毒素恐惧中的疑神疑鬼者用它来作为对策。那本书认为儿童健康保卫战正在进行，敌军包括杀虫剂、污染、重金属、药物、工业废料、化学制品、劣质自来水、色素、人工制剂、防腐剂、糖、细粮、抗生素以及大量营养素的错误比例。作为初出茅庐的健康卫士，母亲们被教育要小心含有化学制剂或添加剂、破坏身体营养以及经过深加工的食物。它们无处不在。

"Super Nutrition" instructs readers on avoiding diabetes, optimizing immunity and reducing inflammation. There are not too many recipes here, although there are incoherent juxtapositions: Blueberry Breakfast Crepes With Raspberry Syrup, with coconut and ghee, runs up against Yorkshire Marrow Custard, which uses marrow bones and heavy cream. This is for babies, remember. Bone marrow and heavy cream for infants. It doesn't ring right. But I'm learning to distrust my intuition. And yours, too.
《婴儿超级营养》指导读者们预防糖尿病、增强免疫力、减少炎症。关于这一点书中给出的食谱不是很多，不过有些食谱与此相矛盾，比如，法式蓝莓早餐薄饼，含树莓糖浆、椰汁和酥油；约克郡骨髓蛋奶冻，里面含有骨髓和浓奶油。别忘了这是给婴儿们吃的。让婴儿吃骨髓和浓奶油。这听起来可不怎么对。但是我正学着怀疑自己的直觉以及你们的直觉。

Trust no one, least of all yourself — that's the takeaway from these new family cookbooks. These books don't expand on Benjamin Spock's great 1946 injunction to mothers to trust themselves; instead, they're a brisk, homemade, garden-fresh antidote to it. Don't trust hot dogs, don't trust children's preferences. Don't trust the carb-poisoned food pyramid. Don't trust vegetable-fruit mixes, because they're mostly apples, and don't trust apples because they're the dirtiest of the "Dirty Dozen" fruits. Everything, especially the apples, is trying to sabotage you.
不要相信任何人，尤其是你自己——这就是这些新家庭烹饪书的理念。这些书没有详述本杰明·斯波克(Benjamin Spock)1946年给母亲们的伟大忠告：相信自己。相反，这些书简直像是这一忠告的解药——一剂家庭自制的、新鲜采摘的清新解药。不要相信热狗，不要相信小孩子喜欢吃的东西。不要相信碳水化合物含量太高的食物金字塔。不要相信蔬菜水果混合物，因为里面大多是苹果；不要相信苹果，因为它是“十二种肮脏的”水果中最肮脏的。所有这一切，特别是苹果，正在谋害你的性命。

Nothing in these latest family cookbooks, with their conversion narratives, their personal-chef lifestyles, their nervous science and their strained insistence on the supremacy of family dinner has done anything to quiet my brain on the subject of why it's my problem — and that of the world's mothers — to make nightly sense of this ideological convulsion over food. If anything, they fuel the panic; they are the panic.
这些最新家庭烹饪书——对思想转变的描述，私人大厨的生活方式，神经兮兮的科学，对家庭晚餐崇高地位的捍卫——一点也没让我的大脑平静下来，它们没有回答我的问题：为什么每天晚上为食物感到精神紧张是我的责任，是全世界母亲们的责任。它们只是让我更恐慌；它们是我的恐慌之源。

The silver lining is that when they (and I) stop perseverating on food anxiety, the cookbooks — especially the ones by Rosenstrach, and also "Bébé Gourmet," by Jenny Carenco — feature dozens of extraordinary-sounding recipes. Carenco's Baby Beef Bourguignon, with its dry ham and caramelized chestnuts, looks like a dream. And Rosenstrach, especially, never seems to go wrong: Her Buttermilk Oven-Fried Chicken lets you use highly processed, shelf-stable Kellogg's Corn Flake Crumbs along with cayenne and four cups of buttermilk. Also glorious-sounding is her Pork Shoulder Ragu With Pappardelle.
庆幸的是，当她们（和我）不再纠结于食物焦虑时，这些烹饪书——尤其是罗森施特拉赫的书以及珍妮·卡伦科(Jenny Carenco)的《贝贝美食家》(Bébé Gourmet)——还是提供了几十个听起来很棒的菜谱。卡伦科的婴儿勃艮第红酒炖牛肉——里面还有干火腿和焦糖栗子——看起来诱人极了。罗森施特拉赫似乎从来都不会出错：她的脱脂牛奶烤鸡肉允许你使用深加工、耐储存的家乐氏(Kellogg's)玉米片以及辣椒和四杯脱脂牛奶。她的猪肘酱宽面听起来也很好。

For a time, I stopped trying to figure out dinner and just stared at the recipes, with their line breaks like poetry and the uNPRetentious photographs, most of which do not seem styled. Just braised pork, being pulled off the bone with a fork on a wooden cutting board. Wow, it looks so delicious. I sure wish some mother would make it for me.
有一段时间，我不再努力思考做什么晚餐好，就只是盯着那些食谱，它们的换行符看起来像诗歌，里面的照片也很朴素，大多看起来不是很艺术化。我炖猪肉，在木案板上用叉子把肉从骨头上弄下来。哇唔，它看起来很美味。我当然希望有个妈妈给我做这个吃。