男士内裤，250元的和50元的有何不同？

MATTHEW GARDNER doesn’t mince words when voicing his dedication to good underwear. “I actually f-ing care about it because I wear them all day,” said the 32-year-old co-founder of Highfield, a New York marketing firm. Mr. Gardner didn’t always get so strident about underthings; he used to unthinkingly rely on packs of banal cotton boxer briefs (boxer briefs generally constitute 60% of men’s underwear sales). Then he realized that he was obsessing over the rest of his wardrobe only to take the most intimate garment of all for granted. After some googling, he decided to try briefs from CDLP, a budding Stockholm label that makes taut underwear from lyocell, a natural wood pulp. “They’ve got this Marvel superhero shape to them,” said Mr. Gardner. “It’s a nice thing to put on in the morning.”

谈到自己对好内裤的执着追求时，纽约营销公司Highfield的联合创始人、32岁的马修.加德纳(MATTHEW GARDNER)毫不掩饰地说：“我就是很在意内裤的质量，因为整天都要穿嘛。”加德纳对内衣裤的要求并非一直这么严苛，他也曾不动脑筋，随便买些很普通的棉质平角内裤（这种内裤一般占到男士内裤销量的六成 ）。但后来他发现，自己对其他衣物精挑细选，却独独忽视了最贴身的衣物。在谷歌上搜索一番后，他决定购买CDLP的内裤试试，CDLP是来自斯德哥尔摩的一个新品牌，他们采用莱赛尔纤维(Lyocell，一种天然木浆)制造紧身内衣裤。“它的款式跟漫威超级英雄穿的很像。”加德纳说，“早上穿上它，感觉真不错。”

Mr. Gardner’s swap reflects a broader change across the underwear industry, and in men’s dresser drawers. New cutting-edge labels like Mack Weldon, Tommy John and Hamilton & Hare are muscling into territory populated at the low end by Hanes, Fruit of the Loom and Jockey and at the higher end by luxury brands like Sunspel and Derek Rose. These upstart brands are the Ubers of underwear, out to disrupt the once complacent, ho-hum market. They offer subscription services so pairs arrive at your doorstep with optimal efficiency, and persuasively pack their websites full of techy terms like “antimicrobial XT2 silver” fabric, “anti-ride up leg bands” and “quick draw flys.” We’ve come a long way since a billboard of Marky Mark, snugly clad in simple Calvin Kleins, scandalized Time Square.

加德纳对内裤态度的转变，折射出内衣行业和男士衣橱更大范围的改变。Mack Weldon、Tommy John、Hamilton & Hare等先锋品牌正大举进军Hanes、Fruit of the Loom、Jockey等品牌占据的低端市场，以及Sunspel与Derek Rose等高端奢侈品牌把持的领地。这些行业新贵堪称内裤界的优步(Uber)，在固步自封、平淡乏味的行业内搅乱一池春水。他们提供订购服务，可以高效送货上门，品牌官网上也满是令人神往的高科技词汇，例如“抗菌XT2银纤维”面料、“防缩腿带”以及“快捷前裆开口”。自从男模Marky Mark穿着Calvin Kleins贴身内裤的广告牌惊现时报广场(Time Square)以来，这个行业已经几经变迁。

“We spent 9-10 months in the lab, really focusing on creating real innovation,” explained Brian Berger, the CEO and founder of Mack Weldon, who claimed that the label tested out fabrics used by Olympic athletes, NASA and the U.S. Special Forces while developing their underwear.

Mack Weldon的CEO兼创始人布莱恩.贝格尔(Brian Berger)说，“我们在实验室里花了9到10个月，一心想研发出真正有创新意义的产品。”他声称自家品牌研发内裤时测试了奥运会运动员、美国宇航员和美国特种部队成员专用服饰使用的面料。

These scientifically sound skivvies tend to come, naturally, with high price tags. A pair of underwear from Mack Weldon can cost as much as a four-pack of Champion briefs on Amazon.com. But just how different can all these pairs be? I set out to answer this question by sampling over forty-five boxer briefs, from labels at every price point.

高科技含量自然带来不菲的价格。在亚马逊网站上，购买一条Mack Weldon内裤的价钱可以买四条冠军牌(Champion)内裤。这些内裤又有什么不同呢？为了回答这个问题，我们测评了45条不同价位的平角内裤。

Bargain Briefs The Winner: Hanes Comfort Flex Fit Boxer Briefs. $36 for four, macys.com

平价内裤，Hanes Comfort弹力平角内裤，36美元四条。

Cotton is not the softest material for skivvies. Many brands use a smooth poly, but Hanes won me over by blending cotton with modal, a fiber made from beech trees, that has a supple, dare I say silky, feel. Hanes also demonstrates the importance of “paneling” the brief for a more flexible fit.

棉质面料并不是男士内衣裤中最柔软的材质。许多品牌使用的都是光滑的聚酯纤维面料，但Hanes的莫代尔棉混纺面料赢得了我的青睐，莫代尔纤维来自山毛榉，触感柔软丝滑。Hanes的内裤也证明，面料的剪裁拼接对内裤的舒适贴身也有重大影响。

Jockey’s Sport Outdoor Boxer Brief inserted a bonus mesh panel for breathability but was a little long in the leg, awkward if you’re wearing shorts. Uniqlo’s AIRism briefs were extraordinarily lightweight, but the barely-there style might feel too unsubstantial.

Jockey户外运动平角内裤拼接了一块网面材质，让内裤更加透气，但它有点长，穿短裤的时候会略显尴尬。优衣库的AIRism内裤极其轻薄，但这种好像没穿的感觉可能会让你觉得有点心虚。

Deluxe Drawers The Winner: Sunspel Supersoft Trunks. $40, sunspel.com

奢华内裤，Sunspel超柔运动短裤，40美元

Once again, fabric is key, and Sunspel, a 158-year-old British brand that also sells superior clothing basics, earns high marks for the smoothness of its cotton. The fit was neither skintight nor too bunchy. The ribbing around the thighs and waist didn’t protrude as much as that of some other high-end brands, which seem to think using more stitching justifies a steep price tag.

面料再次成了取胜的关键。158年历史的英国老品牌Sunspel（也销售高级服装面料）以其柔滑的棉质面料获得高分。它的松紧恰到好处，大腿和腰部的罗纹也不像某些高端品牌那么凸出，搞得好像针脚越多就越能证明贵得有道理似的。

Zimmerli’s 700 Pureness brief was plush, but its short inseam might be too revealing for the more modest man. The stretchy, poly material of Falke’s Sport System makes that brief a great option for gym rats.

Zimmerli的700 Pureness内裤很舒适，但对于保守的男士来说，它有些太短了。Falke的运动类内裤(Falke’s Sport System)采用聚酯纤维面料，有弹性，是健身爱好者的上佳之选。

Innovative Undies The Winner: Nice Laundry Boxer Briefs, $24, nicelaundry.com

创新内裤，Nice Laundry平角内裤，24美元

Some newfangled brands eschew the fly completely, but why put a wall where there should be a window? Nice Laundry’s horizontal fly preserves the best of both worlds. And while many new-tech cuts extend too far down the leg, Nice Laundry’s brief comfortably ends at the upper thigh.

某些标新立异的品牌的男士内裤前裆完全不开口，这真让人不解：为什么要在该开窗的地方拦上一堵墙呢？Nice Laundry的平口内裤就两全其美了。许多采用新技术剪裁的内裤都有些太长了，但Nice Laundry的内裤恰如其分地结束在大腿上方。

Tommy John’s nylon-and-spandex light Air Trunk (which also has a horizontal fly) was noticeably breathable, but the fabric was a little wispy. If you can live without a fly, Mack Weldon’s poly AirKnitX (using “air” to connote lightweightness is popular in underwear nomenclature) offers exceptional comfort.

Tommy John的尼龙氨纶混纺超轻空气感运动短裤（也采用了平口设计）非常透气，但面料有些过于稀疏了。如果你愿意选择不开口的内裤，那么Mack Weldon的聚酯纤维AirKnitX（用“air”来表示轻盈是很流行的内裤命名方式）一定能为你带来极度舒适的感受。