2010潮男必备:经典天鹅绒休闲夹克

　　Enter some men’s wear departments these days, and you could be forgiven for thinking Christmas has come early. Velvet jackets, the stuff of end-of-year-dinners and festive get-togethers, festoon the rails even before the inevitable racks of tinsel, cards and wrapping paper have appeared in stores。

　　随便走进几家男装店，恍然感觉圣诞已然到来。这也不怪你，通常岁末年终赴宴以及节庆欢聚时才穿的天鹅绒夹克已经琳琅满目地摆满了货架，甚至比亮箔、卡片和包装纸年复一年的上架时间还要早。

　　The current crop of velvet jackets, however, has a rather more casual feel, more blazer in style rather than resembling something pulled from the black tie or evening wear section. Designers from Giorgio Armani to Dolce &Gabbana and Gucci have taken this luxurious, louche fabric and brought it squarely in to the daylight。

　　但是，当前这批天鹅绒夹克更具休闲与运动风格，而非随意模仿半正式礼服和晚装款式。从乔治·阿玛尼(Giorgio Armani)到杜嘉班纳(Dolce &Gabbana)以及古姿(Gucci)，设计师们都认可了这种原本属于公子哥穿的奢侈面料，并让它堂而皇之地登堂入室。

资料图:经典奢侈天鹅绒夹克

　　Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative director, says: “Velvet has always been a signature material for Gucci; it brings a rich and effortless look to men’s tailoring。” The designer paired platinum grey, plum and deep russet brown two-button velvet blazers (1,610) with black jeans, weekend bags and loafers on the autumn/winter runway. “This season I printed micro-patterns in luminous tones on to the velvet to give it a twist,” continues Giannini, “which means the jackets can move easily from day to evening. I think modern men now have the confidence to break traditions in the way they pair casual and formal。”

　　古姿创意总监弗里达·贾娜妮(Frida Giannini)说：“天鹅绒一直是古姿的标志性面料，它赋予了男装浑然天成的成熟魅力。”设计师在今年秋冬季服装秀上推出了由黑色牛仔裤、休闲包 (weekend bags)以及乐福鞋(loafers)搭配的铂灰色与深紫色的两款两粒扣天鹅绒运动夹克(售价1610欧元)。“今年秋冬季，我在天鹅绒上添加了小格子亮色图案，夹克的花样不断翻新，” 贾娜妮继续说，“这意味着夹克衫无论在白天还是晚上都能随意穿。用休闲装与正装搭配着穿，我认为体现了现代人破除陈规的信心。”

　　Case in point: her predecessor at Gucci, Tom Ford, a man at home in a glossy velvet jacket, whose current eponymous men’s wear campaign features actor Nicholas Hoult (who appeared in the film Ford directed, A Single Man) in a zingy midnight blue velvet blazer complete with jaunty playboy cravat, a pair of sultry shades, and a flock of psychotic ravens perched on his shoulders for effect. Available in eight colours, from emerald green to ruby red, ebony and aubergine, Ford’s blazers are cut from fine Italian velvet (the “daytime” version – yes, there is a “daytime” version – retails for a cool ?2,370, the evening version for ?2,290)。

　　举个例子：汤姆·福特(Tom Ford)是贾娜妮之前的前任古姿创意总监，在家喜欢穿亮光色天鹅绒夹克，他目前举行了以其名字命名的男装推介会，主打款以男演员尼古拉斯·霍尔特(Nicholas Hoult，曾出演福特导演的影片《单身男子》(A Single Man))为偶像，穿的是活力四射的午夜款蓝色天鹅绒运动夹克，配以时髦的牛仔围巾，佩戴一副让人想入非非的遮阳镜，模特肩上还蹲了几只“精神不正常”的乌鸦以增加视觉效果。福特设计的运动夹克(哦，本系列还有“日款”，零售价卖到了让人咂舌的2370欧元，晚装款零售价则为2290欧元)由上等意大利天鹅绒面料裁剪而成，共有8种颜色的款式面市，从翠绿、宝石红、乌黑到紫红色不等。