2010潮男必备:经典天鹅绒休闲夹克

　　Gucci and Tom Ford are not alone in their velvet blazer adoration. Giorgio Armani offers a classic two-button style in black velvet with deep lapels (1,400)； Dolce &Gabbana, with its navy single-breasted blazer (605, from Harvey Nichols)； and Etro, courtesy of a neatly tailored jacket in deep purple velvet (830) have also fallen for this style. Angelo Galasso, an Italian men’s wear designer with a store in London, has velvet shoes to match his silk-lined, piped-edged, five-pocket velvet jackets with working cuffs (1,750)。

　　并非只有古姿与汤姆·福特钟情于天鹅绒运动夹克。乔治·阿玛尼也推出了一款经典的黑色两粒扣深翻领天鹅绒夹克(售价为1400欧元)；杜嘉班纳则推出了海军服风格的单排扣运动夹克(夏菲尼高(Harvey Nichols) 百货店的售价为605欧元)；埃特罗(Etro)也附庸风雅，不失时机地精心推出了制作精良的深紫色运动夹克(售价为830欧元)。意大利男装设计师安吉洛·加拉索(Angelo Galasso)在伦敦设有分店，他设计了带工作袖套、以丝绸作里衬，再用天鹅绒鞋来搭配的五个口袋的滚边型天鹅绒夹克(售价为1750欧元)。

　　British designers are no less enthusiastic, albeit in a slightly more low-key way, from Paul Smith London’s easy-cut jacket (425) to Ede &Ravenscroft’s ready-to-wear smoking jackets in a variety of rich shades (550). Savile Row is also softening to the smoking look. “We have at least one bespoke velvet jacket going through at the moment,” says Patrick Grant of Norton and Sons. “But velvet is a tough cloth to work with. Smoking jackets are one of those items in a man’s wardrobe that can be spectacular when well-cut and well-made, but can also be spectacularly bad if poorly cut。”

　　英国设计师虽说显得较为低调，但热情也丝毫不减： 从Paul Smith London推出的简易款夹克(售价425英镑)到埃德和拉芬斯克洛夫(Ede &Ravenscroft)推出的的多款现成的强色调晚便装(售价为550英镑)。专注男子高级纯手工定制的萨佛街(Savile Row)也放下了架子，向休闲风格转型。“我们目前至少已有一款全定制天鹅绒夹克正在推介，” 诺顿父子(Norton &Sons)的帕特里克·格兰特(Patrick Grant)说。“但天鹅绒是种很难伺候的面料。男士衣柜里有上几套裁剪了得、制作考究的晚便装会让人增辉出彩，但若是裁剪功夫拙劣，做出的夹克穿在身上会惨不忍睹。”