东西方女性的化妆不一样

As the cosmetics world goes global, how will it affect individual nations' ideas of beauty? Now that anyone with internet access can check out the latest catwalk trends and advertising campaigns in international fashion magazines, will make-up trends become homogenised? Will a Mad Men-inspired red lip catch on in China, as it has in New York and London? Will women from Mumbai turn their backs on Bollywood glamour in favour of "the new nude"? Here, industry insiders from major cities around the world report from the front lines of beauty today.
风靡全球的美容业，对世界各国的美容概念有何影响？如今网络上随处可以看到的最新时尚资讯，以及时装杂志上激烈的广告竞争，会让美容趋势变得越来越单一吗？灵感来自《广告狂人》的口红在中国是否也跟在纽约和伦敦一样受欢迎？孟买的女性们是否又会从宝莱坞范儿转投"裸色主义"的怀抱？现在，世界各大主要城市的业内人士为大家带来美容界的最新播报。

London
伦敦

"Catwalk trends take time to trickle down, but when key celebrities wear a look, it can have an instant influence," says make-up artist Cassie Lomas – and the celebrity does not have to be UK-based. "The statement lips we saw on Angelina Jolie at the Oscars is a trend that London girls are sporting," says Lomas, who credits the Kate Middleton effect as well: when the Duchess of Cambridge wore a particular Bourjois nail polish (Rose Lounge), sales soared. "It is still their bestseller," says Lomas, who is also a consultant for the brand. But the influence of New York shouldn't be underestimated, says Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK. "You can't get away without having a manicure and tidy nails any more, and that's the influence of the US."
"T台上的时尚风潮流行起来需要时间，而一旦名人们有个什么新妆容，则能取得立竿见影的效果。"彩妆艺术家卡西•洛马斯（Cassie Lomas）说，并且这些名人不一定非要是英国本土的。"我们在奥斯卡红毯上看到的安吉丽娜•朱莉用的口红，伦敦的女孩儿们也涂得正欢。"洛马斯说，他同样也认同凯特•米德尔顿（Kate Middleton）效应：当这位剑桥公爵夫人（Duchess of Cambridge）涂了一款别致的Bourjois指甲油(Rose Lounge)，卖场里立马卖到脱销。"这款指甲油仍旧是该品牌最畅销的。"洛马斯说，他同时兼任这家品牌的顾问。而来自纽约的影响也不应该被忽视，Space NK的创办人尼基•金纳德（Nicky Kinnaird）说："如果没修剪好指甲，你是绝对不会出门的，这正是受了美国的影响。"

Paris
巴黎

"Parisians do not in any way follow fashion trends that come from the shows – they have their thing and stick to it," says Lloyd Simmonds, creative director of make-up at Yves Saint Laurent. French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt is a likely influence on French women, says make-up artist Lisa Eldridge: "She has that typically French, easy, effortless look with the glossy hair, fabulously cut jacket, no make-up except for a bit of bronze – the most I've seen her with is a bit of black smudged pencil."
"巴黎人不太会受秀场的影响——他们有自己的风格并且非常坚持。"Yves Saint Laurent彩妆部的创意总监劳埃德•西蒙斯（Lloyd Simmonds）说。《Vogue》杂志法国版的编辑艾曼纽•奥特（Emmanuelle Alt）或许就是受了法国女性影响，彩妆艺术家丽莎•艾尔德里奇（Lisa Eldridge）说："她的样子非常法式、简单、不费力气，配上有光泽的头发、剪裁极好的外套，除了一点点眼妆之外，根本不化妆——我见到她的大多数时候她都只用了一点点黑色眼影。"

Bright splashes of red, orange and pink lipstick featured heavily at the shows but red is already a Parisian classic. "I have seen a lot of Parisian women wearing bright red and I can see them continuing to wear a lot of bright orange or fuchsia red lips," says Simmonds. YSL's current bestselling lipstick is Rouge Laque: a rich, glossy red stain (£22.50). "The rest is still always very minimal. That's just a very Parisian approach," says Simmonds. "Their mothers teach them how to do it properly," says Eldridge.
醒目的红色、橘色还有粉色口红在秀场上层不出穷，但实际上红色一直都是巴黎人的经典唇色。"我看过许许多多巴黎女人都涂着鲜艳的红唇，并且我能想见她们会用上更多鲜艳的橘色或者紫红色。"西蒙斯说。YSL目前最为畅销的口红是Rouge Laque：丰盈亮泽的红色（售价22.50英镑）。"库存非常少。这是非常巴黎式的。"西蒙斯说。"她们从妈妈那里学到如何将之使用得最为恰当。"艾尔德里奇说道。

New York
纽约

"In New York City, summer is about ­natural-looking make-up, glowing skin and eye shadows in warm neutrals," says Bobbi Brown, whose summer bestsellers include long-wear make-up, in particular a brilliant dark brown gel eyeliner (£17). Yet the New York make-up artist Kabuki, who is also artistic director of the British cosmetics company My Face, thinks the red lip will catch on. Indeed, a sheer, blood red lipstick stain by Lipstick Queen is Space NK's bestseller. Meanwhile, "Unusual nail colours are bigger than ever," says Kabuki. The bestselling colour at Space NK in New York is The Darkest Emerald (£12) and Hip Pop (a shimmer coral) by British nail company Rococo. "Maybe that is an extension of the now classic navy and dark, vampy colours," says Eldridge, "but I still don't see it working in the average New York office."
"在纽约，夏天便是自然风格的妆容、容光焕发的皮肤还有中性暖色的眼影。"鲍比•布朗（Bobbi Brown）说，他的夏季畅销款包括长效彩妆，尤其是一款光泽感十足的深棕色眼线胶（售价17英镑）。不过纽约的彩妆艺术家，同时兼任英国化妆品公司My Face艺术总监的Kabuki却认为红唇即将流行。的确，一款清透醒目的红色Lipstick Queen红色口红成为了Space NK的热卖商品。同时，"颜色别致的指甲油也比以往更受欢迎。"Kabuki说。纽约Space NK里卖得最好的一款是英国指甲油品牌Rococo的The Darkest Emerald（售价12英镑）和Hip Pop（发着微光的珊瑚色）。"或许这是目前经典的海军蓝、暗色，还有粉色的一个延伸，"艾尔德里奇说，但是我在纽约的办公室里还是很少见到。"

Milan
米兰

"Milanese women still like all that sexy stuff: you see a lot of blondes – with the lashes, the smoky eye, that Donatella plumped-up nude lip. It's almost Kim Kardashian," says Lisa Eldridge, who adds that the classic Hollywood look is popular too. Photographer and former creative director of British Vogue Robin Derrick points to two distinct beauty looks in Milan: "Miuccia [Prada]-style, minimal yet very well done during the day, and then the less fashiony people, who are, if anything, quite evening in their look: they will wear a cocktail dress for work, with the smoky eyes and beige lips."
"米兰女人依旧热爱所有性感的事物——你会看到许许多多尤物——浓密的睫毛、烟熏眼妆，多纳泰拉（Donatella，范思哲掌门人）般丰盈的嘴唇，像极了金•卡戴珊 （Kim Kardashian，美国名模）。"丽莎•艾尔德里奇说，她又补充说经典的好莱坞风格也同样流行。摄影师、《Vogue》杂志英国版前创意总监鲁宾•德里克（Robin Derrick）指出米兰有两种典型的女性装扮："缪西娅•普拉达（Miuccia Prada）风格，简约但是非常适合日间活动；还有一种就是什么时候都像是在过晚上：她们会穿着晚礼服去上班，还带着烟熏的眼妆和褐色的唇妆。"