东西方女性的化妆不一样

"We end up mixing US and European summer references with our fall/winter," says Victoria Ceridono, beauty editor of Vogue Brazil. "This season a great influencer is the feminine, pastel trend: its delicate and perfect for day. Louis Vuitton and Chanel showed beautiful looks," she says. Indeed, the bestselling MAC cosmetic in Sao Paulo is a pale fuchsia lipstick called Snob (£13.50), which has a waiting list. Yet, it's now winter in Brazil, albeit mild. According to Ceridono: "Deep red and wine lipstick is big – Brazilians are used to wearing bright reds and pinks, so it is a natural evolution for the colder weather." Overseas influence is increasing as more brands move in (Sephora launched last month), but for now MAC lipsticks and Benefit primers are popular foreign brands – and "BB [blemish balm] cream fever is starting to grow," says Ceridono. Brazilian model Gisele is still a reference, as is the model Isabeli Fontana, but a big influences on women's beauty is the Brazilian telenovela, or soap operas, with its glamorous look.
"在我们的秋冬流行里，已经不再参考混搭欧美夏季潮流了。"《Vogue》杂志巴西版的美容编辑维多利亚•赛瑞多诺（Victoria Ceridono）说。"这一季最受欢迎的是女性、柔和的风格：非常精致，适合日间。路易威登（Louis Vuitton）和香奈儿（Chanel）都有着很好的示范。"她说。的确，在圣保罗最畅销的MAC化妆品是一款名为Snob的浅樱红色口红（售价13.50英镑），供不应求。然而，虽然天气还算暖和，但现在巴西仍然是冬天。按照赛瑞多诺的说法："深红色和酒红色的口红很畅销——巴西女人之前喜欢涂亮红色和粉色，因此这也算是天气转凉之后的一个自然变化。随着更多品牌的进入（丝芙兰就在上个月在巴西开业），海外影响也在增加，但是目前MAC的口红和Benefit的妆前液是最畅销的外国品牌商品—— 人们对BB霜的兴趣也在渐渐变得狂热。"赛瑞多诺说。巴西名模吉赛尔（Gisele）和伊莎贝莉•芳塔娜（Isabeli Fontana）是人们模仿的对象，但更能影响女人们的则是那些美艳的电视明星或者肥皂剧演员。

Moscow
莫斯科

"This summer the most popular trends are graphic eyeliner, coral lipstick, wet gloss on eyelids and lips and pastels," says Elena Petrova, beauty and living director of Vogue Russia. "My friends and colleagues tend to follow more or less the same make-up routine from day to day. They pick what looks good on them and are less likely to experiment than women in Europe or the States." Still, she says, "Russians love nail polish, especially in summer ... the brightest and trendiest shades." Maria Taranenko, beauty director of Elle Russia, adds: "They will match the make-up with their look, with nail polish and shoes of the same colour."
"今夏最流行的是醒目的眼线、珊瑚色的口红、润泽的眼睑和嘴唇，柔和的颜色"《Vogue》杂志俄罗斯版的美容与生活编辑伊莲娜•佩特洛娃（Elena Petrova）说，"我的朋友们和同事或多或少地会一直追随同一种化妆风格。她们会挑选那些适合自己的，跟欧美女性相比，她们较少尝试新事物。"她还讲到："俄罗斯人喜欢指甲油，尤其是在夏天……还有最醒目和时髦的墨镜。"《Elle》杂志俄罗斯版的美容总监玛莉亚•塔拉年科（Maria Taranenko）补充说："她们会将妆容、指甲油还有鞋子的颜色搭配起来。"

Mumbai
孟买

"Peach, pink or coral lip stains are popular. Cheek stains and cream blush in bronze, apricot or peach are on trend. And for evening red lips are still big news, with flashes of orange showing up," says Parizaad Khan, beauty editor of Vogue India. "Kohl will always be popular with Indian women, no matter the current season or trend," she says. Little wonder MAC's three bestselling cosmetics are black eyeliners. "We're doing winged liner for evening and a lot of neon and bright pops of colour on fingers and toes," Khan continues. "Bollywood is probably the single largest influencer ... but Indian women are extremely aware of international make-up trends, which trickle down via make-up artists and also hairstylists. I've seen a number of girls with bright coloured panels in their hair, which they may or may not be aware was seen on the spring/summer runway at DSquared," says Khan.
"桃红色、粉色还有珊瑚色的口红是很受欢迎的。此外还有偏棕色、杏黄色和有桃红色的腮红也很流行。对于晚妆来说，红唇加上一点橘色依旧是不二之选。"《Vogue》杂志印度版的美容编辑帕里扎德•可汗（Parizaad Khan）说，"眼影粉一直是印度女性的最爱，无论什么季节，无论怎样的流行趋势。"她说。奇妙的是MAC排名前三的畅销化妆品都是黑色眼线。"我们会为晚妆花上飞翘的眼线，以及为手指和脚趾涂上亮丽的颜色。"可汗补充说，"宝莱坞或许是最大的影响源……但印度女性们在彩妆艺术家和美发师的推广下已经意识到了国际的美容潮流。我看到许多的女孩子挑染她们的头发，这或许是从DSquared的春夏T台上学来的。"可汗说。

Beijing and Shanghai
北京和上海

"Vogue is saying sky blue or bright red nails – the Chinese have beautiful hands and feet and they love decorated nails," says Kathy Phillips, international beauty director of Condé Nast Asia Pacific. Yet, she continues: "I don't think they think in terms of trends. Make-up is not a big thing and you very rarely see women in lipstick; there is more interest in skincare." The weather plays a part in this: "In most places summer is too hot to wear make-up; it is important to look clean," says Helena Hu, beauty director of Elle China. And Chinese actresses are a reference point. "Fan Bing Bing is the most popular beauty idol today," says Hu. The most popular received trend of the summer? "The Chanel trend with the pearls in the hair is hugely popular. The Chinese love hair accessories and the idea of putting decoration in your hair as a way to get it out of the way and look pretty," says Phillips.
"《Vogue》杂志预告了天蓝色或艳红色的指甲油将会成为流行——中国人的手脚都很漂亮，他们也热衷于装饰指甲。"康泰纳仕亚太区国际美容总监凯西•菲利普斯（Kathy Phillips）这么说道。不过，她又继续说："我不认为他们考虑过流行趋势。彩妆并非一件不得了的事，你很少会看到涂口红的女性；她们更关注护肤。"气候因素对此有部分影响："在许多地方，夏天化妆实在是太热了；看起来干净清爽才是最重要的。"《Elle》杂志中文版美容总监Helena Hu说。而中国的女明星们成为了参照对象。"范冰冰如今已经成为最红的美容典范。"Hu说。那么最流行的夏季趋势是什么？"发间点缀珍珠的香奈儿（Chanel）风最受欢迎。中国人喜欢发饰，头发上的饰品会让人看起来很俏丽。"菲利普斯说。

Tokyo
东京

"In the spring it was pink cheeks and lips and for summer it will be coral," says make-up artist and creative director for RMK Cosmetics, Tolu. This ties in with Vogue Japan's 1950s pink and coral summer beauty message, set to feature on its beauty pages. "I think those slightly cold colours work with their skin," says Phillips, "but, as a whole, Japanese women are very unmade-up. They are much more concerned with the shape of their face, their eyes being big and skin being dewy." Though Phillips does not think western trends have much effect on the Japanese beauty market, make-up artist Shinobu Abe disagrees: "Japanese women copy western girls' eyes, to make them look bigger and rounder. They curl lashes, apply layers of mascara, then false lashes," he says.
"春天流行粉色的腮红和口红，而夏天则会是珊瑚色当道。"彩妆艺术家以及化妆品牌RMK的创意总监Tolu说。这与《Vogue》杂志日本版美容专题所做的粉色与珊瑚色的五十年代风格极为吻合。"我认为这些稍微有点冷色调的颜色很衬她们的皮肤。"菲利普斯说，"但是，总的来说，日本女性还是不太爱彩妆。她们更多关注的是自己的脸型，眼睛要大，皮肤要滋润。"虽然菲利普斯认为西方的彩妆趋势对日本化妆品市场影响不大，但彩妆艺术家阿部忍（Shinobu Abe）却持有不同观点："日本女性们模仿西方女孩儿的眼妆，好让自己的眼睛看起来又大又圆。她们把睫毛夹得翘翘的，涂上一层层的睫毛膏，还装上假睫毛。"他这么说道。