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男人也爱美 男鞋变花哨了

2012-09-23来源:FT中文网
However, Lobb's handmade styles (around £600) offer years of wear while these new "directional" designs mimic the seasonal changes usually seen in womenswear and are thus a less reliable investment. Will they catch on with male consumers?
但是,洛布手工款鞋(售价约600英镑)经久耐穿,而这些新推出的时尚鞋通常也存在类似女款鞋那种季节性的变化,因而在经济上不太划算。时尚男鞋能俘获男性消费者的"芳心"吗?

One place that is particularly resistant to passing trends is the City of London. Says one City lawyer: "I wore dark brown lace-ups as a change one week and those were considered ‘statement' enough. I was mocked for weeks by my conservative colleagues, so I am not sure these would go down well. Perhaps in media ..."
对流行时尚具有"强耐抗性"的地方是伦敦金融城(City of London)。金融城一位律师这么说道:"有一周,我换了一双深棕色系带鞋,觉得很是标新立异。结果,我的那些保守朋友取笑了我好几周,因此本人不知道这些另类鞋会不会流行下去,也许媒体可以大肆吹捧……"

Another Lloyd's broker adds: "I don't think the commissionaires would let me in to the Lloyd's building with them on and at the weekend my teenage boys say they wouldn't let me leave the house in them."
英国劳合社(Lloyd's)一位经纪人补充说:"我觉得自己若是穿这样的鞋上班,劳合社的门卫都不会让我进大楼;周末时,家里十来岁的儿子们说我若是穿这样的鞋,他们都不会允许我出门。"

So why the sudden rush to bolder styles among the sartorially adventurous males? "There's a growing confidence among male consumers, who are becoming increasingly fashion literate and ready to be more playful with their wardrobes," says Smith.
那么,那些追求新潮服饰的男士为何会突然间青睐这种前卫的流行时尚?"原因是男性消费者的自信心越来越足,他们越来越了解时尚,希望尝试一把欢快风格,"史密斯说。

The trend started in spring 2011 with Prada's platform trainers, brogues and espadrilles, which became cult hits, and the reinvention of men's slippers in opulent fabrics. The growing embrace of brothel creepers has also encouraged men to be more experimental.
这股时尚风肇始于2011年春季,当时普拉达推出了厚底运动鞋、布洛克鞋以及登山帆布鞋(很快被消费者争购一空)以及重新打造了华丽织布类男士拖鞋。超厚橡胶底鞋的盛行也不断鼓励男士一试为快。

"Trainers have also been a major driver," says Burstell. "There's been a huge string of statement, bright styles, which have been really popular, and worn by lots of famous people. It's encouraged men to be braver. These rare styles also appeal to the collector in men, which we've seen with sneakers for years. Shoes have become another geek pursuit."
"运动鞋也是主要的推波助澜者,"伯斯戴尔说。"市场上标新立异、颜色亮丽的鞋应接不暇,它们很受消费者欢迎,而且很多大名人都喜欢穿。它们鼓励男士更大胆地去尝试新款。这些稀有款式还引起了男性藏家的深厚兴趣(这几年来,旅游鞋的收藏就是个明证),鞋成了社会另一大怪癖收藏之对象。"

At the same time, observes Bateman, "the statement shoe is much less scary than a statement jacket. Perhaps our bravery has migrated from our socks – it used to be these that the ‘classic' man kept as their subversive bit of fashion and now it's the shoe. A coloured shoe or a velvet slipper makes me feel slightly more rebellious."
与此同时,贝特曼注意到:"相比标新立异的夹克,标新立异的鞋履不太会让消费者存有顾虑。也许我们的无畏源自以前穿袜子——过去的袜子款式多样,以致于名人们把它视作颠覆时尚之物,如今则是鞋履担此"光荣角色"。色彩艳丽的鞋或者天鹅绒拖鞋让本人觉得有了"挑战时尚传统"的底气。"