你能接受男人穿真丝吗

This summer the silk road is running in a new direction: leading not from India, but from Italy. And men's fashion – from suits to shirts, trousers and even raincoats – is being reimagined in the fabric.
今年夏天，“丝绸之路”有了全新路线：并非由印度、而是由意大利引领。男士时装——从西服到衬衣、裤子甚至雨衣——都因真丝而再次充满想象空间。

Ermenegildo Zegna's new Passion for Silk range includes sharply tailored jackets with mother-of-pearl buttons (£1,090), matching trousers (£900) and print silk shirts (£880). “Silk has amazing properties,” says Anna Zegna, image director at the Italian label. “It's versatile and luxurious, but it is also the ideal fabric to create a modern, masculine silhouette.”
杰尼亚(Ermenegildo Zegna)新推出的Passion for Silk系列包括了缀珍珠母纽扣的经典款夹克（售价1090英镑），把它用来与裤子（售价900英镑）以及印花丝绸衬衣（售价880英镑）相搭配。“丝绸具有神奇的特性，”意大利品牌杰尼亚形象总监安娜•杰尼亚(Anna Zegna)说。“它功能多样，豪华奢侈，但它也是打造现代阳刚男装的理想面料。”

Etro, too, showed a large number of silk jackets and suits for spring/summer in everything from bold paisley patterns to conservative plain shades of blue-grey in rougher finishes. Silk “is both practical and esoteric”, says creative director Kean Etro. “It takes colour like no other material and adds richness to the cloth; you can achieve all sorts of effects with it. It can be rough or smooth, dull or shiny.”
今年春夏季，埃特罗(Etro)也推出了很多款真丝夹克及西服，从风格大胆的佩斯里印花(Paisley Pattern)款到传统的简约型蓝灰暗纹糙面款式，一应俱全。真丝“既实用又神秘”，埃特罗创意总监基恩•埃特罗(Kean Etro)说。“它的给色效果最出色，同时又能增加面料的华丽，可以呈现出各种效果。它既能糙，又能滑爽；既能阴暗又能光彩照人。”

But will men really wear silk? Aside from the usual feminine associations, it isn't, despite Etro's claims to practicality, the easiest of fabrics to care for: it stains, wrinkles and let's not mention the dry-cleaning bills.
但男士会真愿意穿真丝衣服吗？尽管埃特罗一再强调其实用性，但除了常把真丝用作女性服装面料外，伺候它并不容易：它不耐脏，容易起皱，更甭提还有不菲的干洗费用。

Zegna clearly believes the answer is “yes”. Indeed, in 2009, the group put its investment where its fibres were, and acquired Tessitura di Novara, a company based in northern Italy that has been producing silks since 1932. Now, together with the main Zegna manufacturing base, the silk range can be spun, dyed, woven and finished entirely in-house.
杰尼亚明确认为男士会喜欢真丝服装。2009年，它甚至出资收购了自己的真丝面料供应商Tessitura di Novara公司，该公司位于意大利北部地区，自1923年以来一起生产各种丝绸面料。如今，与杰尼亚主要的制造基地精诚合作，从制纱、染色、针织到最终面料的整个丝绸生产过程完全在公司内部完成。

“It was just after we had just finished the current collection that I saw the Passion for Silk campaign from Zegna,” says Etro. “I'm sure people think we get together and decide these things in advance, but I promise you we don't!”
“我们刚刚制作完成当前真丝系列后，才看到杰尼亚的Passion for Silk系列产品的推介活动，”埃特罗说。“我确信大家会觉得我们两家是提前合起伙来决定的这些事，但我向你保证我们并没有这么做！”