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你能接受男人穿真丝吗

2013-06-15来源:互联网
In London, Savile Row tailor Richard James has noticed increased demand for silk over the past couple of years, particularly from bespoke customers. “I'm not sure that men have ever thought of silk as being overly feminine,” he says. “Silk pocket squares, silk linings, silk ties, silk shirts, silk socks ... I'd say men have always embraced silk and used it very cleverly as a means of self-expression. Silk adds a bit of dressiness, so it's perfect for evening wear.”
在伦敦,萨维尔街(Savile Row)裁缝师理查德•詹姆斯(Richard James)注意到真丝需求在过去几年呈上升趋势,尤以定制客户为甚。“男士是否曾把真丝看作专属女性的面料,我不敢肯定,”他说。“口袋用丝绸方巾、真丝里衬、真丝领带、真丝衬衣、真丝袜子……我想说男士一直喜欢丝绸,也一直巧妙地把它用来表现自我。真丝可以增添一丝时髦感,因此用作晚装再合适不过了。”

Silk is also one way to make a statement – see Tom Ford's lilac tuxedo jacket (£2,000), main picture, or Burberry Prorsum's blue metallic raincoat (£1,895).
真丝也是品牌展露心迹的方式——诸位看看汤姆•福特(Tom Ford)推出的淡紫色燕尾服外套(售价2000英镑)以及巴宝莉-珀松(Burberry Prorsum)推出的发亮款蓝色雨衣(售价1895英镑)便一清二楚了。

So what about caring for silk? “It's not really more difficult to care for than any other luxury fabric,” says James. “But you've got to look after it. It's not polyester!” Etro, meanwhile, insists that silk is “the hardest-working” of all fabrics, citing its versatility.
那么该如何伺候真丝料呢?“真丝料也并不比其它奢侈面料难伺候,”詹姆斯说。“但你必须好好养护,它可不是聚酯面料!”与此同时,埃特罗坚持真丝是所有面料中“用途最广泛”,他指的是它的功能多样。

If pure silk still proves too much of a sartorial leap, it is an easier sell when mixed with other traditional fabrics. “We often mix it with some wool, to give it body, or cotton for a more casual look,” Etro says.
如果说用纯真丝料做服装以实现巨大飞跃还任重道远的话,那么与其它传统面料混纺后,销售起来则要顺利得多。“我们常把它与羊毛混纺,以增加形体感;要不就把它与棉混纺,以营造更为休闲的风格,”埃特罗说。

James agrees: “Mixing silk with linen, wool or cotton gives it more structure and makes it easier to work with. It adds a defining edge to a fabric, giving it lustre, which makes for a clean silhouette. Wool and silk blends are popular this season. As are linen and silk blends; the earthiness of linen combines beautifully with the sharpness of silk.”
詹姆斯对此也表示赞同:“把真丝与亚麻布、羊毛或是棉布混纺,纹理感更强,也更容易伺候;同时增加了面料的棱角感,光泽感也更明显,穿上后显得有板有眼。羊毛与真丝混纺料是今年春夏季的流行面料,亚麻布与真丝混纺面料也是如此,亚麻布的质朴与真丝的时髦珠联璧合,相得益彰。”

Silk-mix fabrics that work for every day include navy blazers in a 92 per cent silk/8 per cent linen mix from Piombo (£1,085); one-button blazers in a linen, wool and silk blend from Brioni (£1,435); soft grey single-breasted jackets in a cashmere and silk blend from Loro Piana (£2,195); and jackets in equal amounts of cotton and silk from Sandro (£410).
适合每天穿的真丝混合料服装有Piombo推出的深蓝色运动夹克(92%的真丝与8%的亚麻布,售价1085英镑),布莱奥尼(Brioni)推出的单粒扣运动夹克(由亚麻布、羊毛以及真丝混纺面料制作而成,售价1435英镑),罗洛•皮雅纳(Loro Piana)推出的柔灰色单排扣夹克(由羊绒与真丝混纺面料制作而成,售价2195英镑),以及桑德罗推出的、棉与真丝各占一半的夹克衫(售价410英镑)。

So, check the label of your summer jacket: you could just be wearing a touch of this season's most sought-after fabric and not even know it.
所以,请诸位不妨瞧一下自己夏季夹克的标签:您可能穿着今年春夏季最流行的面料,而自己仍蒙在鼓里呢!