健康大误区:洗脸别洗太干净

Washing your face seems pretty simple, yet dermatologists and beauty companies think there's room for improvement.
洗脸看起来特别简单，但皮肤科医生和化妆品公司却认为，它还有改进提高的空间。

Easy does it is the message experts have for consumers, as a new generation of facial cleansers promises mild formulas that won't dry out the skin. New devices offer deep-clean claims but with a lighter touch. Some doctors even say that people with good skin should wash their face just once a day -- at night.
随着新一代洁面产品问世，许诺其温和配方不会使皮肤变干，专家们向消费者传递出这样的信息：洁面别着急，需要放轻松。新产品宣称能够提供深度清洁，而且对皮肤的触碰也更为柔和。有些医生甚至称，皮肤好的人每天只应洗一次脸──在晚上洗。

It's a tough sell for consumers familiar with strong formulas that can make skin feel tight and squeaky clean. Many people take that feeling as a sign of effectiveness, when actually it is a signal of overdrying or damage.
这个说法很难让那些熟悉强力配方的消费者接受，这类配方能使皮肤感到紧绷和异常洁净。很多人认为这种感觉是产品效果好的表现，但实际上它是皮肤过干或受损的信号。

And most people still assume that any skin problem -- whether dull skin, acne or age spots -- can be solved by scrubbing a bit harder. 'They think, 'All I need to do is clean it more thoroughly, more vigorously.' That's everyone's answer,' says Susan Taylor, medical director at Society Hill Dermatology in Philadelphia, and a spokesperson for Johnson & Johnson, makers of Neutrogena and Clean & Clear skin-care lines.
大多数人仍认为任何皮肤问题─不论是暗沉肌肤、痤疮或老年斑──都能通过多用点儿力搓洗来解决。费城(Philadelphia) 索赛蒂希尔皮肤病医院(Society Hill Dermatology)医疗总监、强生公司(Johnson & Johnson)发言人、露得清(Neutrogena)及可伶可俐(Clean & Clear)护肤系列制造商苏珊?泰勒(Susan Taylor)说：“他们认为‘我唯一需要做的就是更彻底、更用力地清洁它。’那是每个人的答案。”

Most cleansing products have a surfactant, a chemical or natural compound that helps break through the surface tension of the skin. The cleanser absorbs dirt and oil and removes them during rinsing, according to Menas Kizoulis, scientific engagement leader on Johnson & Johnson Consumer Cos.' R&D team.
强生公司消费部研发组科研参与负责人米那斯?伊佐利斯(Menas Kizoulis)说，大多数清洁产品都含有一种表面活性剂，它是一种有助于打破皮肤表面张力的化学或天然合成物。清洁用品会在漂洗过程中吸收并消除污垢和油脂。

While removing dirt and oil, the surfactant interacts with the stratum corneum, the skin's outermost layer and protective barrier -- and that is where problems begin. The surfactant can remove the good oils skin produces, resulting in overdrying, Mr. Kizoulis says. And it also can remain in the stratum corneum, exacerbating irritation.
在祛除污垢与油脂时，表面活性剂会与角质层发生反应。角质层是皮肤的最外层，也是它的防护屏障──而这正是问题的根源。伊佐利斯称，表面活性剂会祛除皮肤产生的有益油脂，导致皮肤过干。而且它还会遗留在角质层中，加剧对肤质的刺激。

Stinging, burning and irritation are 'actually a sign of harmful stripping of the skin,' says Patricia Farris, a Metairie, La.-based dermatologist and a fellow at the American Academy of Dermatology. A compromised skin barrier also makes a person more susceptible to infection and environmental harms, such as pollution. 'Feeling squeaky clean -- we don't want to go there. It's too aggressive,' says Dr. Farris.
美国皮肤病学会(American Academy of Dermatology)会员、路易斯安那州梅泰里市(Metairie, La.)皮肤病学家帕特丽夏?法里斯(Patricia Farris)称，刺痛感、灼烧感和红肿“实际上都是皮肤遭到有害剥离的迹象”。皮肤保护层受损还会使人更容易感染，遭到污染之类的环境侵害。法里斯博士说：“感觉异常洁净──我们不想干净成那样儿。那太过激了。”

Stephanie Samuel, a 28-year-old attorney in Chicago, told her dermatologist, 'I get the squeaky clean feeling.' To which the doctor responded, 'No! No squeaky!' Ms. Samuel now uses a gentle cleanser in the morning and an exfoliating cleanser in the evening.
芝加哥28岁的律师斯蒂芬妮?塞缪尔(Stephanie Samuel)告诉她的皮肤科医生说：“我就觉得自己特别干净。”她的医生对此回应道：“不！不要特别干净！”如今，塞缪尔白天使用的是一种温和洁面乳，晚上使用的是一种去角质洁肤露。

Facial cleansing has been a growth opportunity for the skin-care industry in recent years, with sales of cleansing liquids, creams, bars and wipes topping $1.8 billion last year, up nearly 4% from the prior year and more than 7% from 2010, according to Euromonitor International.
根据欧睿国际(Euromonitor International)的数据，近些年来，洁面已成为护肤品行业的一个增长点。去年，清洗液、洁肤霜、清洁皂和湿巾的销售额高达18亿美元，比前年增长近4%，较2010年增长超过7%。

When the founders of Clarisonic set out to create their first face-cleansing device, there weren't many supporters. 'Cleansing is the boring step. People don't like to do it,' one dermatologist told Robb Akridge, a co-founder of Clarisonic, a unit of L'Oreal, and the brand's global general manager. Another dermatologist gave Dr. Akridge this mandate, he recalls: 'You have to make cleansing sexy.'
当科莱丽 (Clarisonic)的创始人着手打造他们首个洁面仪时，当时的支持者并不多。一位皮肤科医生告诉科莱丽──现在是欧莱雅旗下公司──联合创始人之一、该品牌全球总经理罗伯?阿克瑞芝(Robb Akridge)说：“清洁是特别无聊的事情，人们都不喜欢做。”另一名皮肤科医生也给了阿克瑞芝一项任务，他回忆说：“你必须得让清洗这事儿变得有意思。”

The resulting product, a motorized oscillating brush, has renewed consumer interest in the cleansing category, many dermatologists say. The bristles move rapidly back and forth by about a millimeter, which 'wiggles' the dirt out of the pores, Dr. Akridge says.
许多皮肤病医师称，针对这个目标生产出来的产品──一种电动振动刷──重建了消费者对洁面的兴趣。阿克瑞芝博士说，这些刷毛一毫米一毫米地来回迅速移动，就把污垢从毛细孔中“揪”出来了。

It takes only a light touch to use the device. But Clarisonic knew some people would 'want to push hard, like they are scrubbing the floor,' Dr. Akridge said. So it added a stopgap measure: When too much pressure is used, the motor keeps running but the bristles stop moving.
阿克瑞芝博士还称，在使用这款洁面仪时，只需轻轻触碰脸部即可。但科莱丽料到有些人会“想要使劲按压，就像他们在擦地板一样。”所以它增用了一个权宜之计：当使用者用力过大时，该仪器还会继续运转，但刷毛却停下来不动了。

Another source of growth is pre-moistened facial towelettes, or wipes. Ido Leffler, co-founder of Yes to Inc., a line of natural skin-care products, says consumers like the convenience, whether using them at the gym or for a quick cleanse at night. Friends tell him they keep wipes on their bedside table. 'They get home after a little bit of a big night, a little bit tired and little bit drunk, and remove their makeup using the towelette,' Mr. Leffler said. Amy Hart, Yes to product development manager, says the towelettes deliver a different textural feel than washing with water but the same cleanliness.
另一个增长源是预湿面巾，或称湿巾。生产天然护肤品系列的Yes to公司联合创始人伊多?莱夫勒(Ido Leffler)说，不论是在健身房使用湿巾，还是在夜间用它进行快速清洁，消费者都喜欢它的便利。朋友们告诉他，他们都会在床头柜上放些湿巾。莱夫勒称：“他们在晚上参加活动后回到家，有点累，还有点醉，就会用面巾纸抹掉脸上的妆容。”Yes to产品研发经理艾米?哈特(Amy Hart)称，与用水洗相比，这些面巾能起到同样的清洁作用，但却能给使用者带来不同的质感。

Face washing at night is most important, dermatologists say. It removes dirt, grime and pollutants that have gathered on the skin during the day, as well as makeup. Some doctors say people without a serious skin-care issue, such as acne, can skip the soap and just rinse in the morning.
皮肤科医生说，在夜间洗脸最重要。它会清除白天聚集在皮肤上的尘垢、污渍和污染物，还有妆容。有些医生说，没有严重护肤问题（比如痤疮粉刺）的人早上可以不用肥皂，用水冲洗下即可。

'Your skin has just slept on a pillow, it is clean, it doesn't necessarily need to be washed,' said Gervaise Gerstner, a Manhattan dermatologist and consultant for L'Oreal Paris. Dry skin from overcleansing is a problem for people as they age, she says.
巴黎欧莱雅(L'Oreal Paris)顾问、曼哈顿的一名皮肤科医生杰瓦伊斯?格斯特纳(Gervaise Gerstner)说：“你睡觉的时候皮肤只接触了枕头，很干净，真没必要洗。”她还称，等人们老了的时候，那些因为过度清洗引发的干性皮肤就会是一个问题。