健康大误区:洗脸别洗太干净

For men, the biggest face washing issue is which product they use -- or lack thereof. About half of men wash their face solely with water, says Rob Candelino, vice president of marketing for skin care at Unilever, maker of a Dove Men+Care brand. Of men who do use a cleanser, many use a bar of regular body soap, shampoo or whatever else they can find in the shower. Making matters worse, men generally don't moisturize or wear sunscreen every day and so tend to be more susceptible to drying and sun damage, Mr. Candelino says. Alcohol-based products like after-shave can also cause irritation, he says.
对于男性而言，洁面的最大问题是他们使用哪款产品──或者少用了哪种产品。联合利华(Unilever)护肤市场部副总裁罗布?坎戴里诺(Rob Candelino)称，约有一半的男性只用清水洗脸。联合利华是多芬男士+护理(Dove Men+Care)品牌的生产商。而那些使用了清洁产品的男性，许多人都只用一块普通的沐浴皂、洗发露或他们能在浴室找到的其他什么东西。让情况更糟的是，男性通常都不会天天给肌肤保湿或涂抹防晒霜，所以皮肤通常更易干燥和被太阳晒伤。坎戴里诺还称，像男士须后水这种含有酒精的产品也会引发红肿。

Dr. Gerstner suggests men wash their face with a cleanser in the evening to remove dirt and oil. The morning cleanse -- which often overlaps with the morning shave -- is optional, especially if the skin is feeling dry, she said. To make shaving easier, men can apply a warm, moist towel to the face beforehand to soften the skin and beard.
坎戴里诺博士建议男性在夜间使用清洁产品洗脸来祛除尘垢和油脂。她说，晨间的清洁工作──常常会和早上的刮脸重合──不是必须的，尤其是如果你感到皮肤干燥的话。为了让刮脸更容易，男性可以事先用一条温暖潮湿的毛巾擦脸来让皮肤和胡须软化。

Many Americans, especially teens, prefer cleansers that foam or create suds. 'They like the sensation,' says Cindy Kee, senior brand manager at Cetaphil, a line of gentle skin-care products, both foaming and nonfoaming, from Galderma Laboratories. People also tend to believe foam cleans better, which it doesn't.
许多美国人，尤其是青少年更偏爱泡沫型或能产生起泡肥皂水的清洁用品。丝塔芙(Cetaphil)高级品牌经理辛迪?凯(Cindy Kee)说：“他们就喜欢这种感觉。”丝塔芙是高德美公司(Galderma Laboratories)旗下温和护肤系列品牌，包括泡沫型和不起泡产品。人们一般倾向于认为，泡沫型清洁效果更好，但事实并非如此。

The urge to scrub is often formed as a teenager, when the skin is producing more oil and breakouts are common. 'Teens really crave that deep-down-to-the-pores type clean,' says Katie Decker, group brand director at Johnson & Johnson. The average age of the first breakout is 13. From 13 to 17, girls spend an average of 34 minutes a day on skin care, 11 minutes more than the national average for all women, Ms. Decker says.
想要擦洗的冲动通常是在一个人青少年时形成的，这个时期，皮肤分泌了更多的油脂、长痘非常普遍。强生集团品牌总监凯蒂?德克尔(Katie Decker)说：“青少年真的渴望那种深到毛孔内部型的清洁。”人们首次长痘的平均年纪是13岁。德克尔博士还称，从13岁到17岁，女生每天平均会花34分钟来护肤，这比全国所有女性花费的平均时间要长11分钟。

Acne sufferers are likely to overcleanse, either with harsh products or rough scrubbing. 'You can't wash the pimples off your face,' say Katie Rodan, a dermatologist and co-founder of the Proactiv three-step system, which is owned by Guthy Renker. Many acne cleansers deposit a treatment product, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, to kill bacteria and absorb oil.
痤疮患者更易进行过度清洁，要么会使用刺激性强的产品，要么会使劲擦洗。高伦雅芙(Proactiv)三步祛痘法联合创始人、皮肤科医生凯蒂?罗丹(Katie Rodan)说：“你不能把你脸上的痘痘洗掉。”高伦雅芙现归高西伦克(Guthy Renker)所有。很多痤疮洗护用品中都含有治疗药物，像过氧化苯甲?或水杨酸，就是为了杀菌和吸油。

Exfoliators, which contain particles that scrape dead cells from the surface of the skin, are getting gentler, too. Procter & Gamble Co.'s Olay brand recently released the Pro-X Microdermabrasion Plus Advance Cleansing System, which it says offers a gentler experience using a device with a motorized rotating brush, a foam head and a one-minute timer.
含有能刮掉皮肤表面死细胞的微粒的去角质产品也变得越来越温和。宝洁公司(Procter & Gamble Co.) 玉兰油(Olay)品牌近来发布了Pro-X微晶亮肤洁面仪+高级清洁套装(Pro-X Microdermabrasion Plus Advance Cleansing System)。该公司称，使用配有一支电动旋转刷、一个泡沫喷雾头和一分钟计时器的洁面仪，它会提供更温和的体验。

The need for exfoliation increases with age, as the skin's ability to repair and shed itself slows. 'You can see visible differences as the skin piles up,' Ms. Goodman says.
随着年纪的增长，皮肤自行修复的能力减弱，自行脱落的速度也减慢，所以人们对去角质产品的需求会随之增加。古德曼(Goodman)说：“当皮肤皱在一起时，你就能看到这些显而易见的不同。”

Many exfoliators contain sharp, jagged crystals made from particles of apricot pits or nuts that can cut into the skin, causing irritation and inflammation, says Laura Goodman, a senior scientist at P&G. The crystals in the Pro-X formula are small, round and made of sodium bicarbonate -- also known as baking soda -- which dissolve during cleansing.
宝洁公司高级科学家劳拉古德曼(Laura Goodman)称，很多去角质产品都含有锋利的、锯齿状的晶体，这些晶体由杏仁或坚果的微粒制成，它们会刺进皮肤，引发红肿和炎症。而Pro-X产品配方中的晶体微小圆润，且由碳酸氢钠─也被称为苏打粉─制成，它们在清洁过程中就会溶解。