绿色果蔬汁流行 消费者会花多少钱买健康饮料?

As much as $10 and sometimes more. At least that's the belief of high-end grocers like Whole Foods Market and a spurt of small juice companies trying to move the cold-pressed-juice craze from small-batch to mass-produced.
高达10美元甚至更多。至少这是Whole Foods Market等高档食品超市和一批发展迅猛的小型果汁生产商的信条，他们正试图将狂热的冷榨果汁潮流从小批量变成大规模生产。

A 16-ounce bottle of BluePrint Red, containing beets, carrots and ginger, among other ingredients, goes for $10 at some retailers. And Whole Foods customers are paying $9 for a bottle of celery-based Twelve Essentials vegetable juice, one of the top-sellers from Suja, an 18-month-old juice brand based in San Diego. Suja co-founder Annie Lawless says customers understand the high cost of what goes into the bottle, including organic produce that is cold pressed and then preserved using a process that leaves most of the nutrients intact. 'When you buy a bottle, you're getting all the goodness without any of the effort,' says Ms. Lawless, a 26-year-old former law student and yoga instructor. The company says it generated $20 million in revenue in its first year.
BluePrint一瓶16盎司（约合454克）的Red果汁在某些零售店售价10美元（约合人民币60元），其中含有甜菜、胡萝卜和姜汁等原料。在Whole Foods超市，以芹菜为主要原料的Twelve Essentials蔬菜汁售价9美元（约合人民币54元）一瓶。这是 地亚哥果汁品牌Suja销量最好的一款产品。该品牌创立仅18个月。Suja联合创始人安妮・劳雷斯(Annie Lawless)说，消费者明白成本高在哪里，包括使用的有机农产品，它们经过冷榨并使用可保留大部分营养的方法进行储藏。劳雷斯说：“买这样一瓶饮料，毫不费力就能获得所有的精华。”劳雷斯现年26岁，之前是法学专业学生，并担任过瑜伽教练。公司表示第一年营收为2,000万美元（约合人民币1.2亿元）。

Just as carrying a Starbucks coffee cup has become a celebrity fashion accessory and a slung-over-the-shoulder yoga mat can signify a certain devotion to spiritual fitness, porting a clear bottle of green vegetable juice has evolved into a status symbol. Initially, the juicing market was supported mostly by people doing liquid-only cleanses, marketed as a way to rid the body of toxins and bloat. Now, more consumers are drinking juice as a meal replacement, a quick infusion of vegetables or to convey the impression of superior health and discipline.
就像端一杯星巴克(Starbucks)咖啡已经成为明星时尚配件、肩上挎个瑜伽垫标志着某种对精神健身的忠诚一样，带一瓶清澈的绿色蔬菜汁也已经演化成一种身份象征。最初，果汁市场主要受到液体 化排毒者的支持，它被宣传为一种清理身体毒素和水肿的方式。现在，越来越多的消费者将喝果汁作为餐食的替代品、快速摄取各类蔬菜的方式或者为了给人以优越健康和自律的印象。

Suja's product line is a slate of fruit-and-vegetable juices meant to dose the body with a palatable concentration of nutrients from organic produce. For people doing a liquid-only cleanse, Suja sells packages on its website. A three-day supply costs $225, including shipping on ice outside of California. It has flavors such as Glow, which contains apples, cucumbers, mint, kale and other ingredients, and Green Supreme, with apples, kale and lemon.
Suja的产品线是一系列各色果蔬汁，为的是给身体提供可口的来自有机农产品的浓缩营养。对于进行液体 化排毒的人，Suja在其网站销售套装。三天装价格为225美元（约合人民币1,350元），包括冷冻送货至加州以外地区。口味有Glow和Green Supreme等，前者含苹果、黄瓜、薄荷、甘蓝等成分，后者含苹果、甘蓝和柠檬。

Health experts say the vegetable drinks have many beneficial nutrients, although some ingredients, like apples and carrots, can add a lot of sugar. Consumers should be careful to get enough fiber in their diets, since the process of cold-pressed juicing extracts the juice from the fiber-rich leaves and stems. Good sources of fiber can include whole grains and nuts, which aid digestive health.
健康专家说，蔬菜饮品有很多有益的营养成分，尽管苹果和胡萝卜中的某些成分会增加大量糖分的摄入。消费者应注意摄入足够的纤维，而冷榨果汁的工艺是将汁液从富含纤维的叶子和茎中提取出来的。良好的纤维来源包括全麦和坚果，有助于增强消化健康。

A simpler route to a well-rounded diet might be to eat the vegetables themselves, rather than as juice, suggests Marion Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies and public health at New York University. 'It's a lot of money, why not have a salad?'
纽约大学(New York University)营养学、食品研究及公共卫生教授玛丽昂・内斯特(Marion Nestle)说，更简单的一种达到全面饮食的方法是直接吃蔬菜。她说：“花那么多钱，为什么不直接吃沙拉？”

Juice companies say the high cost of the organic produce, and the expense of processing, prevent them from selling their product for less. Consumers making their own juice at home with similar ingredients would pay about the same or more, not counting the cost of equipment, they say. 'We wish we could bring the cost down,' says Zoe Sakoutis, co-founder of BluePrint.
果汁生产商表示，有机农产品的高成本和加工的开支不允许他们降低售价。他们表示，消费者在家用相似原材料自己制作果汁也要花差不多的钱，还不算设备的成本。BluePrint联合创始人佐耶・萨考提斯(Zoe Sakoutis)说：“我们倒希望能降低成本。”

Sarah Andersen, 31, drinks about five bottles of Suja juice a week and says it leaves her feeling healthy and confident. A health-and-wellness trainer for teenage girls in Madison, N.J., Ms. Andersen says she used to make her own juice. But the time, effort and mess became onerous. Now she buys Suja, even if it means cutting back elsewhere. 'I know it's expensive but I would rather have a juice than get my nails done.'
31岁的莎拉・安德森(Sarah Andersen)每周要喝五瓶Suja果汁，她说Suja果汁让自己觉得健康和自信。安德森来自新泽西州麦迪逊(Madison)，是一名针对年轻女孩的健身教练。她说她以前是自己榨果汁，但太耗时间和精力了，而且收拾起来很麻烦。现在她买Suja果汁喝，即使这意味着要在别的地方省钱。她说：“我知道很贵，但和做指甲相比，我还是宁愿喝果汁。”

Industry experts say overall sales of cold-pressed juice aren't tracked separately. But the segment is a bright spot in an otherwise stagnant juice market, they say. National retailers like Whole Foods are devoting increased shelf space to the products, more companies are launching, and acquisitions and expansion in the industry have been robust, says Jonas Feliciano, a beverages analyst for Euromonitor International, a market-research company. 'Americans are drinking less juice,' he says. 'So what manufacturers are going for is attracting the health-conscious consumer who will pay higher costs for smaller volumes.'
业内专家说，冷榨果汁的整体销售情况并未进行单独追踪，但这个领域是原本萧条的果汁市场中的亮点。市场研究公司Euromonitor International 饮料市场分析师乔纳斯・费利西亚诺(Jonas Feliciano)说，Whole Foods等全国性零售商开始增加冷榨果汁产品的货架空间，越来越多的公司开始推出冷榨果汁，并购和扩张也很活跃。他说：“美国人喝果汁越来越少，所以生产商争取的是吸引愿意花高价购买小容量的有健康意识的消费者。”

Errol Schweizer, executive global grocery coordinator for Whole Foods, says the company was skeptical at first that consumers would be willing to pay such high prices for juice. But, he says, 'I have been surprised by the cleansing products and what people are willing to spend.'
Whole Foods全球食品执行协调员埃罗尔・施魏策尔(Errol Schweizer)说，公司起初怀疑消费者是否会愿意花这么高的价格买果汁。但是，他说：“我很惊讶于那些排毒产品，以及人们愿意为它花的钱。”

Still, Whole Foods is hedging its bets. Mr. Schweizer says he called on Suja to work with Whole Foods' product team to create a secondary line of less expensive juices and smoothies. The line, called Suja Elements, was launched in Whole Foods stores around the country this fall and retails for $5. The bottles are smaller -- 12 ounces versus the usual 16 ounces -- and the recipes tend to use lower-cost ingredients like apples and carrots.
尽管如此，Whole Foods还是在做两手准备。施魏策尔说，他邀请Suja与Whole Foods的产品团队合作创立了价格不那么昂贵的果汁和冰沙副线品牌Suja Elements。该品牌于今年秋季在全美上市，零售价5美元（约合人民币30元）。瓶身体积更小──12盎司（约合340克）而非普通的16盎司──配方一般使用苹果和胡萝卜等低成本的原料。