正文
世界上最著名的可以酿酒的八种葡萄
'I KNOW NOTHING about wine--where do I start?' is perhaps the most frequent question I am asked. An obvious starting point is with grape varieties, which each have their own distinctive character and flavor.
“我对葡萄酒一无所知──我该从哪儿开始?”这可能是我最常被问到的问题。一般来说,可以从了解葡萄品种开始,每个葡萄品种都有自己与众不同的特征和味道。
There are more than 5,000 varieties of wine grapes planted in the world. Luckily, for those new to the subject, only 100 or so have enough appeal to be deemed commercially viable. Luckier still, it's a relatively small number that have found international recognition.
世界上种植着超过5,000种酿酒葡萄。幸运的是,对于葡萄酒新手而言,只有100种左右被认为有足够的商业吸引力。还很幸运的是,受到国际认可的品种也相对较少。
These used to be referred to as the Noble Grape Varieties, a term coined by the British wine trade to describe the classic grapes of Europe (though it's no longer used in professional wine exams). Nicholas King, research and development manager at the Wine & Spirits Education Trust, says it drifted out of use in about 2003. After using 'common' or 'international,' the educational body has now settled on the term 'principal' grape varieties.
Jean-Manuel Duvivier这些品种曾被称为“贵族葡萄品种”(Noble Grape Varieties),英国葡萄酒行业用这个词形容欧洲的经典葡萄品种(尽管在专业葡萄酒考试中已不再用这个词)。葡萄酒与烈酒基金会(Wine & Spirits Education Trust)的研发经理尼古拉斯·金(Nicholas King)称,此称呼在2003年左右退出使用。在使用过“常见”和“国际”后,这家教育机构现在将其定名为“主要”葡萄品种。
Whatever the term, it refers to the eight classic varieties--Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Grenache and Riesling--whose flavor and character have led to them being exported around the world. Their success has, in many ways, been detrimental to their reputation: the level of planting being such that quality has inevitably been diluted.
不管使用什么名字,它指的都是八个经典葡萄品种──霞多丽(Chardonnay)、黑皮诺(Pinot Noir)、赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)、梅乐(Merlot)、长相思(Sauvignon Blanc)、西拉(Syrah)、歌海娜(Grenache)和雷司令(Riesling)──它们的味道和特征使它们出口到全世界。从许多方面看,它们的成功都对其声名有损:种植水平相当参差不齐,以至于质量也不可避免地下降。
Wherever you are on the wine journey, whether a connoisseur or a novice, an understanding and appreciation of these varieties will benefit you enormously.
不管你对葡萄酒了解多少,是行家还是菜鸟,了解和鉴别这些品种都将使你获益良多。
I rather like the old term for them as, in their finest form, these grapes are capable of producing wines that are among the very best in the world. Here's my guide to what every wine drinker should know.
我更喜欢它们的旧名,因为最优质的葡萄才能酿造出世界上最好的葡萄酒。以下是我认为每位葡萄酒品尝者都应该知道的常识。
Cabernet Sauvignon
赤霞珠
Principally associated with the red wines of the M钼doc in Bordeaux, this variety has been planted all over the world. A late ripener, its small red berries produce wines that when young have a concentrated, dark color and taste predominantly of blackcurrant. Young Cabernet can also have a spicy, herby character and a lot of tannin. With age (and the very best will be long lasting), they develop secondary notes of cedar. Often blended with other varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown in Australia, Chile, South Africa and California, where it is very successful.
这个品种主要与波尔多(Bordeaux) 梅多克(Medoc)地区的红葡萄酒有关,世界各地均有种植。它是一种晚熟品种,小红浆果酿造出的葡萄酒在年份浅时色泽浓深,尝起来主要是黑醋栗味。年份浅的赤霞珠也可能有辛辣草香味道,富有大量单宁。随着年份渐深(最好的赤霞珠是年份深的陈酒),它们呈现出第二香调──雪松香。赤霞珠通常与其他品种混合种植,也成功生长在澳大利亚、智利、南非和加利福尼亚州。
Drinking Now // 1996 Château Lynch Bages, EUR120; and 2011 Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon, EUR12
现在品尝//1996年靓茨伯酒庄(Chateau Lynch Bages)产赤霞珠,120欧元;2011年巴斯克酒庄(Los Vascos)产赤霞珠,12欧元
Chardonnay
霞多丽
Due to the fact that it can be grown successfully almost anywhere, this white grape variety from Burgundy is a global superstar. It can be all things to all men, from rich, buttery and nutty in Burgundy to taut, clean, crisp and dry (most notably in Chablis); sparkling where it is part of the Champagne blend; and ripe with a nose of exotic fruits in warmer regions. Sublime in Burgundy, Chardonnay is also successful in Australia, California, New Zealand and Italy.
由于它几乎可以在任何地方成功生长,这种来自勃艮第(Burgundy)的白葡萄是全球葡萄品种中的超级明星。它的口感多样,适合所有人,从勃艮第的醇厚、黄油和坚果风味到紧致、 透、干爽和清淡风味(夏布利酒(Chablis)最为明显)不一而足;与香槟混酿时它泡沫丰富,成熟时带有温暖地区异域水果的香气。最好的霞多丽产自勃艮第,它在澳大利亚、加利福尼亚洲、新西兰和意大利也可以成功生长。
Drinking Now // 2011 Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Chardonnay, EUR24; and 2008 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, EUR60
现在品尝//2011年奥邦洛斯阿拉莫斯酒庄(Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Chardonnay)产霞多丽,24欧元;2008年约瑟夫杜鲁安皮里尼-蒙哈谢一级酒庄(Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru)产霞多丽,60欧元
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