世上有一种时尚叫"祖母式潮流"

Is conservative the new radical? The fashion world certainly seems to think so. This season, designers filled their runways with restrained silhouettes that echo the graceful, showing-less-is-more aesthetic of generations past.
保守就是另一种形式的激进？时尚界显然是这么认为的。本季设计师们推出的廓形保守的时装频频亮相秀场，它们反映出了几代人以前那种优雅端庄、露得少即为美的审美观。

Designers are reimagining soignée staples for spring and summer─skirt suits, twin sets, below-the-knee dresses, kitten heels and frame bags─that appear anything but moth-eaten. In fact, fashion's neoconservative coup d'état feels deliciously defiant, given the excessively revealing styles pop culture celebrates. A quick flip through any supermarket tabloid yields an onslaught of oversexed stars and their indelicate fashion choices, which prompted a strict dress code for this year's Grammy Awards. When you factor in over-the-top street style and the all-round oversharing that has become pervasive, the reeled-in restraint of a bygone era looks more and more like a cool, quiet revolution.
设计师们开始重新打造优雅风格的春夏季主打──裙装、两件套、过膝连身裙、中跟鞋和夹框包等等，款款似乎都散发出陈旧的气息。实际上，鉴于当代流行文化追捧的时尚风格过于暴露，时尚界这次爆发的新保守风格变革，这一挑战颇受到欢迎和赞赏。随意快速浏览任何一份低俗小报，你就会发现一大群过度卖弄性感的明星和她们不甚文雅的时装选择，这也促成了今年格莱美奖颁奖礼采取了严格的着装准则。再考虑到过于夸张的街头时尚和无处不在的全方位的过度暴露，来自以往某个时代的约束看上去越来越像一次了不起的悄无声息的变革。

This dignified uprising can be spotted on many of today's most influential style setters─British fashion icon Alexa Chung, Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova and Moda Operandi co-founder Lauren Santo Domingo, to name a few.
这一庄严的“时尚起义”的影响可在当今最具影响力的许多时尚引领者的身上看到，比如英国时尚偶像艾里珊??钟(Alexa Chung)、俄罗斯超模娜塔莉亚??沃迪亚诺娃(Natalia Vodianova)以及时装品牌Moda Operandi的联合创始人劳伦??桑托??多明戈(Lauren Santo Domingo)等。

'A young girl now doesn't want to dress like her mother; she finds her grandmother much cooler, ' said Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping, who designed skirt suits inspired by his own nana. 'She wore little smart, tweedy suits. I always had a romantic notion of that.' But the designer, who modernized his separates by cutting them in a light-as-air bouclé woven onto organza, also drew inspiration from a much younger source. 'Someone told me a story about the [22-year-old] model Eliza Cummings and how when she got her first big money job she went straight out and bought a Chanel suit, ' said Mr. Copping. 'I thought, 'Wow, that's really clued up!' '
莲娜丽姿(Nina Ricci)的创意总监彼得??科平(Peter Copping)说，现在的年轻女孩不喜欢打扮得和自己的母亲一样，她们反而发现祖母的着装更加有型。科平就从他自己的祖母那儿吸取灵感设计了裙装，他说：“她穿着时髦的粗呢小套装，我一直觉得它很浪漫。”他通过采用织在欧根纱上的极其轻盈的圈圈纱面料来裁剪服装，从而赋予它们现代气息，他也从更年轻的一代人中汲取灵感。他说：“有人给我讲过一个（22岁的）模特伊莉萨??卡敏斯(Eliza Cummings)的故事，讲她如何在得到第一份高薪工作时立即就去买了一套香奈儿(Chanel)的套装，我心想‘哇，那确实是在行！’”