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世上有一种时尚叫"祖母式潮流"

2013-06-17来源:互联网
In his spring collection, Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier, who has long imprinted the brand with a classic femininity, crafted sheer cardigans, calf-grazing dresses and a coat in the sort of rose print one might find on the walls of a '50s-era powder room. 'I never liked the obvious definition of 'sexy, ' ' said Mr. Maier. 'I actually don't even like the word. I prefer a woman to be sensuous and in charge─definitely in charge of what she's wearing.'
宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)设计师托马斯??梅耶(Tomas Maier)素来给该品牌赋予了一种经典女性柔美气质,他在其春季系列中打造了薄纱开衫、长及小腿的裙装和玫瑰印花大衣,这种玫瑰图案或许可在上世纪50年代盥洗室的 壁上看到。梅耶说:“我从来都不喜欢对‘性感’的浅显定义,实际上我连这个词都不喜欢,我更喜欢女性散发美感和拥有主导权,这里当然是指对其着装的主导。”

Twenty-six-year-old designer Wes Gordon agreed. 'In serious times, you need serious chic. Anything cute feels bad right now. A grown-up, covered-up silhouette is the anti-cute, ' said Mr. Gordon, whose signature long-sleeve gowns and full skirts have been worn by bright young things such as Jessica Biel and Rita Ora. His spring collection had a red skirt suit worthy of Nancy Reagan. Among Mr. Gordon's inspirations: a book of Valentino Garavani's designs from the '70s (the house's current designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, are also huge proponents of the conservative-but-cool look) and Greta Garbo. 'But late Garbo, when she was running around New York City with a popped collar, hiding from people, ' he said. 'It's good to be a little mysterious in the overcrowded, overexposed world we live in now.'
今年26岁的设计师韦斯??戈登(Wes Gordon)也认同这种观点。他说:“非常之时需要庄重的风格。现在任何性感的东西都给人不好的感觉,而成熟严实的廓形则正是反性感的。”他设计的招牌式长袖礼服和伞裙受到了杰西卡??贝尔(Jessica Biel)和丽塔??奥拉(Rita Ora)等引人注目的年轻女星的青睐。其春季系列还推出了一套衬得上南希??里根(Nancy Reagan)的红色裙装。戈登的设计灵感源泉包括葛丽泰??嘉宝(Greta Garbo)以及一本有关华伦天奴??格拉瓦尼(Valentino Garavani)70年代设计的书(该品牌当前的设计师玛丽亚??格拉齐亚??基乌里(Maria GraziaChiuri)与皮尔??保罗??皮乔利(Pier Paolo Piccioli)也是这种保守但又有型的风格的超级支持者)。他说:“嘉宝在世时,当她在纽约四处走动时,总竖着衣领躲避人群。在如今我们生活的这个过于拥挤、过度暴露的世界中,保持一点神秘感挺好的。”