正文
经济学人下载:男士美容 美女和野兽
Business.
商业。
Cosmetic treatment for men.
男士美容。
Beauty and the beasts.
美女和野兽。
More men are enduring jabs and cuts to look younger.
为了看上去年轻,越来越多的男士宁愿接受注射和整容。
IN GEORGES ROMAN'S clinic in London, women queue to see a cosmetic dermatologist renowned for zapping wrinkles and smoothing brows. These days, alas, they have to share the waiting room with men. In the past few years Dr Roman has treated a succession of bankers and businessmen in London and Paris. They don't want to look beautiful, he says, just "fresher and less worried".
伦敦的乔治斯·罗曼的诊所外,女士们排着队来找这位在消除皱纹和眉间除皱方面著名的整容皮肤专家。啊呀,如今男士们也加入了进来。在过去的几年里,罗曼医生已经为伦敦和巴黎的一批银行家和商业人士进行了治疗。他说道,这些男士不是想看起来帅气,只是想"更加年轻,不再眉头紧锁"
Typically, a swift shot of Botox, a toxin which freezes muscles, targets the deep forehead cleft which can descend on men over 40, especially if they spend all day frowning at a screen. Other favoured treatments are lasers, which perk up skin-tone, and cosmetic fillers for those deep grooves between the nose and the mouth. Englishmen, says Dr Roman, are big spenders. This is just as well: Botox treatment starts at £300 ($477). Fiddlierprocedures can cost twice as much. The French tag along with their wives; Britons sidle in alone.
通常,只需注射一针肉毒杆菌毒素即可。这种毒素可以麻痹肌肉,作用于额头深层的皱纹。尤其是男士年过四十,整天对着电脑屏幕最容易生皱纹。有些人则青睐激光治疗来改善肤色,以及在鼻与口之间的皱纹里填充整容化学材料。罗曼医生说,英国的男士很舍得花钱。情况确实如此:治疗起价为300英镑(477美元),而要进行一些更为细节的治疗则要花双倍的钱。法国的男士通常由妻子们带着来整容,而英国男士则喜欢一个人悄悄来接受治疗。
Botox was used 336,834 times by American men in 2010, up 9% from 2009, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. But women are still 15 times more likely than men to have their faces frozen. "I can't understand what puts people off," grouses抱怨 David Pyott, the boss of Allergan, which makes Botox. Looks matter in the marketplace. "Do you want to have working for you a really old investment banker, a really old lawyer?" asks Mr Pyott.
据美国整形外科协会称,2010年,美国男士用肉毒杆菌治疗高达336834人次,比2009年上涨了9%。但女士用肉毒杆菌治疗的人数是男士的15倍之多。生产肉毒杆菌毒素的爱力根公司总经理大卫?波尔特抱怨道:我无法理解是人们为什么不敢注射肉毒杆菌。长相在商业活动中确实很重要。"你真的发自内心想要一个年老的投资银行家,或一个年纪大的律师为你工作?"
Less invasive male maintenance is growing, too. Mintel, a market-researcher, says sales of men's beauty products in France, Germany, Spain, Britain and Italy rose by 8% between 2005 and 2010, despite the recession, and will grow another 8% by 2014. Moisturisers dominate in France, Britain and Spain. Germans and Italians prefer to buy deodorants.
男士护理产品也在缓慢的发展壮大中。据市场研究院明特尔说,在2005至2010年间,法国,德国,西班牙,英国,意大利的男士美容产品尽管受到了经济萧条的影响,但是销量已经增长了8%,到2014年前将再增长8%。法国,英国和西班牙男士喜欢用保湿品。德国和意大利男士则更喜欢购买除臭产品。
Matthew Soobroy, a stylist with London's Charles Worthington hairdressers, detects a "major leap" in men wanting their hair dyed, or their beards trimmed precisely to emulate the facial foliage of actors such as Michael Fassbender. The mere male may be getting smoother, but he's still a rugged beast at heart.
造型师马修·苏伯雷和伦敦查尔斯?维新顿的发型师们发现,有越来越多的男士愿意染发,或者模仿诸如迈克尔·法斯宾特等男明星的造型来修剪胡子造型。在外表上,男士可能变得更加整洁了,但在内心中,他们仍是邋遢的野兽。
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