经济学人下载:混合食物

Hybrid foods
混合食物

Matches made in heaven—and hell
美味佳肴，还是黑暗料理？

What do you get if you cross a waffle with a doughnut? It's no joke
如果你将华夫饼干与甜甜圈混合会得到什么？这不是开玩笑。

NOT all marriages are happy, but Alex Hernandez thinks that the union of a waffle and a doughnut will be. The owner of Waffles Cafe in Chicago starting selling what he calls “wonuts” in April. They are deep-fried waffles, topped with icing and multicoloured sprinkles. Daily sales went from 24 to 600 within two days. Buzzfeed, a website, called the new snack “proof that a benevolent Food God exists”.
并不是所有的婚姻都是幸福的，但是亚历克斯·赫尔南德斯认为华夫饼和甜甜圈的组合会很幸福。芝加哥的华夫咖啡馆店主于四月开始售卖他叫做“wonuts”的甜品。它们是油炸的华夫饼，表面加上糖衣和五颜六色的巧克力屑。日销售量在两天之内从24猛增至600。网站Buzzfeed把这种新型小甜品叫做“仁慈食神存在的证据”。

Hybrid dishes are fashionable. The wonut follows the cronut, a croissant-donut combination that was invented in New York last year and is now being fried and munched in Taiwan, South Korea, Brazil, Britain—and even France, where you'd think diners would be fussier.
混合菜肴很流行。Wonut是在牛角甜甜圈——纽约于去年发明的一款牛角面包与甜甜圈的搭配组合之后推出的一款新甜品，如今已风靡台湾、南韩、巴西和英国，甚至连对饮食很挑剔的法国都钟情于它。

Many countries indulge in culinary mixing, but Americans, who love both novelty and food, are especially keen on it. Burger King's Croissan'Wich is a croissant-sandwich mix. Taco Bell's quesarito is a beef burrito wrapped in a quesadilla. J&D's Foods produces Baconnaise, bacon-flavoured mayonnaise that is, oddly, vegetarian and kosher-certified. Carl's Jr is testing a bisnut, a cross between a biscuit (in the American sense of the word) and a doughnut. Not everyone is impressed. “Leave it to fast food to think of new and exciting ways to make you have to buy two seats on an airplane. A breakfast-dessert hybrid. You're barely awake and you're already getting all your calories for the day,” grumbles Jeff Sorensen of Uproxx, an online magazine.
许多国家都喜欢混合烹饪，而美国人这种既喜欢新奇又喜欢食物的人对此尤其钟爱。汉堡王的Croissan'Wich是羊角面包和三明治的混合。塔可钟的quesarito是外面裹有油炸玉米粉饼的牛肉卷饼。J&D的食品产业生产Baconnaise——培根风味的蛋黄酱，但有趣的是，犹太教和素食主义者都适用。卡乐星正在测试一款bisnut—小饼干和甜甜圈的组合。并不是每个人都会被打动。“在快餐上使用这个点子，想出新的有趣的方法来让你不得不在一架飞机上买两个位子。早餐混合甜点，你还在打着瞌睡，就已经摄入了一天所需的卡路里，” 一家在线杂志Uproxx的杰夫·索伦森抱怨说。

Such innovation has a long history. Blacks who migrated north after the Civil War served African-spiced fried chicken with European waffles. In the 1910s, Americans drenched German frankfurters with Mexican chili to make chili dogs. More recently, New Yorkers drew on the collective genius of generations of Jewish and Italian cooks to produce: the pizza bagel.
这种创新历史悠久。内战之后迁移到北方的黑人把欧洲华夫饼和非洲五香炸鸡混合在了一起。在20世纪10年代，美国人把德国法兰克福香肠浸透了墨西哥红辣椒，做成了辣椒热狗。最近，纽约人民利用世代传下来的犹太和意大利的烹饪智慧制造出了：披萨百吉饼。

Because America is a nation of immigrants, it has many traditions to mine. But because many cooks try to please everyone, ethnic recipes have often been tweaked so as not to offend unfamiliar palates. “You take something that's different, and you make it similar,” says Roger Horowitz of the Hagley Museum and Library in Wilmington, Delaware. That has often involved adding sugar and fat, which everyone likes. The wonut illustrates another grand old American tradition, too: the layering of mountains of different types of food in a single dish, which goes back at least to the invention of the ice-cream sundae 120 years ago.
因为美国是一个移民国家，因此它拥有许多个人习俗。但是因为大部分食物都是要取悦所有人，民族食谱经常会被改造以满足不同的人的口味。“你拿来与不同的东西，然后把它变成你熟悉的东西，”特拉华州海格利博物馆和威明顿图书馆的罗格·霍洛威茨说。这通常包括加入糖和油脂，这是大部分人都喜爱的。Wonut也说明了另一种极为重要的美国古老习俗：在一道菜中包含了层层叠叠的不同食物，这至少可以追溯到120年前圣代冰淇淋的发明。

Good ideas spread fast, so hybrid hits are soon copied. Crumbs Bake Shop, an ailing and pricey New York-based chain of cupcake shops, was one of several to introduce variations of the cronut. Alas its “crumbnut” failed to save the business, and Crumbs closed its doors on July 7th. As for Mr Hernandez, he is looking to open wonut shops in Chicago, Los Angeles and Phoenix. But he knows that the wonut will not be novel for long, so he is already working on his next creation: a waffle pizza, which perhaps he should call the “piffle”.
好点子传播的很快，因此混合食品的创意很快就有人山寨了。Crumbs Bake Shop是一家总部在纽约的杯形蛋糕连锁店，价格昂贵而且正面临着困难。它是引入多品种牛角甜甜圈的几家店之一，但可悲的是它的crumbnut未能挽回日渐下滑的生意，并于7月7日关门了。对于赫尔南德斯来说，他准备在芝加哥、洛杉矶和凤凰城开wonut商店。但是他知道wonut不会新奇很长时间，因此他正在致力于下一个创新：华夫饼披萨，他可能会把这种食品叫做“priffle”。