舌尖上的中国英文版第三集:转化的灵感
Hu Xuebing is on his way to the county town. He needs to sell his tofu at the morning market.
寿县是安徽省北部的一座古老的小县城,这里的人们对豆腐的情感非同一般。他们坚信,自己的祖先就是伟大的豆腐发明者。10月中旬,皖北地区的黄豆早已收获归仓,用新黄豆磨制的豆腐向来最受欢迎。在中国几千年的农耕史中,大豆一直占据着重要的地位置。在已知的豆科食物中,大豆是蛋白质最丰富也是最廉价的食物来源,可它早期的境遇一度尴尬。煮熟的大豆无法引起人们的食欲,并且使肠胃大量胀气,迫切的需要就是寻找到进食大豆的最佳方式。
Shouxian County is an old little town in the north Anhui province, people there has a special attachment to tofu. They believe their ancestors invented the great tofu. In middle October, soybeans in north Anhui have already been ripped and stored tofu made with newly harvested soybeans has always been the most popular in China's thousands years old history of agriculture. Soybean has long occupied an important position among the well-known legumes. Soybean is the richest in protein. So for the cheapest sustenance, but it was once in an awkward position. Cooked soybeans failed to wet people's appetite and to make matter's worse caused flatulence people urgently need to find the best way to consume soybeans.
秤盘里的白色粉末是石膏,它是把豆浆点化成豆腐的关键。胡学兵对于石膏的纯熟运用和他的祖先如出一辙。在煮沸的豆浆中,变性的蛋白质和石膏相遇后迅速发生胶凝作用,这种变化如此巨大,以至于在瞬间就可以觉察到。
The white power on scale is gypsum, the key to turn soy milk into tofu. Hu Xuebing can use gypsum as skillfully as his ancestors.When the denatured protein meets the gypsum, the boiling soymilk quickly coagulates. The change is so drastic that it can be see in a blink of eye in ancient days.
遥远的年代里,石膏常常出现在中国术士们的秘籍之中,而它和豆腐的渊源据说也恰恰与此相关。很多人相信,2000多年前,正是热衷炼丹的淮南王刘安,在八公山中用豆浆培育丹苗时碰巧加入了石膏,于是无意间促成了豆腐的诞生。不管事实是不是真的那么富有戏剧性,中国人必定经历了漫长的摸索,才让豆腐最终成为了一种了不起的中国食物。无论如何,豆腐的诞生彻底改变了大豆的命运。
Gypsum often appeared in secret scriptures of Chinese war locks. It is said that was how the relation between gypsum and tofu originated started.Over 2000 years ago, Liu An, the king of Huanan was addicted to alchemy when nurturing a mortal pill in soymilk. He happened to add some gypsum in it. Many people believe that's how tofu was invented, regardless of whether the reality was as dramatic as the story. Chinese must be coping for a long time before finally making tofu a great food of china. The invention of tofu however completely changes the fate of soybeans.
豆腐无限包容的个性,给擅长烹饪的中国人创造了极大的想象空间。那些原本让大豆尴尬的不利因素----胰蛋白酶抑制剂、不能被吸收的糖以及植酸,在中国人古老的转化手段中,都被自觉或不自觉地消除了。豆腐的出现,让人体对大豆蛋白的吸收和利用达到了一种高峰。中国厨师对豆腐的理解往往会让人大吃一惊。或许可以说,中国人用豆腐表达了自己柔软变通的适应性。所有的这些,让一粒黄豆得到了升华。这些乳白色的浆液令人浮想联翩。
[en]The great flexibility tofu offers a huge space for the imagination of the Chinese well-known for color its skill. The disadvantages of soybeans were eliminated by reason or unconsciously. As the ancient Chinese transform soybeans into tofu, the value of soybeans protein to human body reach the climax for the invention of tofu. Chinese cooks' understanding of tofu will often take you by surprise. May be it is also correct to say that the Chinese are showing their adaptability through tofu, and thus, soybean has been sublimated.The milky juice arouses many thoughts in our mind.
在中国北方的辽阔草原上,蒙古族的牧民也被另一种流淌的美味滋养着。9月下旬,乌珠穆沁草原已经褪去了绿色。孟克和家人抓紧时间,赶在严冬之前进行最后的出场放牧。草原的深秋充满寒意。干燥的牛粪可以让炉火烧得更旺一些。
On the vast grassland of north China,the Mongolian nomads are nourished by another flowing delicacy. In late September, the green cover is fading on Uzemchin grassland. Mengke and his family are seizing the last days of grazing before the bitter winter arrives. The chill is felt in the late autumn of grassland; dried cow manure can make the fire burn up.
奶茶是早餐中永远的主角。砖茶、黄油、炒米以及鲜奶是一锅奶茶的重要内容。奶豆腐是几天前做的。草原上的人离不开奶茶和奶豆腐,无法靠蔬菜和水果来补充的维生素和矿物质,都可以从这里获得。
Milk tea is always a must for breakfast. Brick tea, butter, stir-fired millet and fresh milk are the important ingredients for making milk tea. Milk curd was made several days ago. Milk tea and curd are indispensable for people living on the grassland. They provide vitamins and minerals that can't be gained from vegetables and fruits.
草原有着神奇的化繁为简的能力。“木犊”是孟克的牛,正处在哺乳期。妈妈要想顺利从母牛那里获得鲜奶,得先过小牛这一关。鲜奶已经不像天气暖和时那样容易发酵了。妈妈要抓紧时间赶制酸奶豆腐,作为漫长冬天的储备。表皮的酸奶油先被小心地舀出来,这是很珍贵的部分。发酵的牛奶结成块状的凝乳,蛋白和乳清在火力下分离开。乳清不会被浪费,它们最适合喂牲畜。需要不停地搅动,这样奶团才不会粘到锅底。最后的乳清被彻底耗干时,奶团被趁热盛进模具中。孟克把新鲜的奶豆腐最先递到爷爷面前,那是最好的美食。
Grassland has the magical power to make tings simple. Mudu the cattle of Mengke, is in the lactation period, to get fresh milk from the cow, Mengke's mother, has to get permission from the cow. Fresh milk no longer ferments as easily as during the warm days. The mother must hurry to make the milk curd as food reserve for the long winter. The sour cream on the surface is carefully ladled out and the cream is very precious. Fermented milk curdles protein and whey is separated when heated. The whey, though, won't be wasted as it best for feeding livestock. You have to keep stirring the juice, so that the curdled milk won't stick to the pot. When the whey is fully separated, the hot curdled milk is put into moulds. Mengke offers the fresh milk curd to his grandfather. It’s the best delicacy.
一直向南,几千公里外的云南,几乎是同样的情形。粗重的木筷被灵活地使用。一个光滑的牛奶团子很快就被揉了出来。三两下后奶团子被拉扯成片,卷上墙边的竹架。
Heading straight south, an almost identical scene is happening in Yunnan thousands of miles away. Thick and heavy chopsticks are moved vigorously. A smooth curdled "milk lump" has soon be rolled after several moves; the lump is dragged into a sheet which is then rolled up onto the bamboo rack by the wall.
在远离北方草原的云南大理,白族人家用相似的手法来转化这里的牛奶。乳扇被晾到场院里风干,像是挂起了巨大的风铃。
In far away Dali, Yunnan, a similarly method is adopted by the Bai minority to transfer milk Rushan, made from milk are hung and air dried in the yard just like giant wind chimes.
在800年前,忽必烈时期的蒙古人远征到云南。定居至此的蒙古人也带来了遥远家乡的奶食味道。他们不会想到,这种转化的手法一直被流传下来,生机勃勃。
Over 800 years ago, during the reign of Kublai Khan, the expeditionary Mongolians arrived and settled in Yunnan. They brought dairy products from their home. Unexpectedly, the way to transform milk has been passed down and still prosperous even today.
妈妈从木盒里取出已经结实的奶豆腐。风干的奶豆腐可以保存很久。肉并不经常吃,因为牲畜太宝贵了。各种奶食几乎成为草原上的主食。
Mother takes the hardened milk curd out of the wooden box. Dried milk curd can be preserved for an extremely long time. Meat is a luxury as livestock is so precious. Dairy products have almost become the main food on the grassland.
这是位于北京市区的一座大型的蒙古餐厅。美味的烤羊背成为食客们的首选,它很容易让人联想到远方草原上那种粗犷的生活方式。但是对于那些身处草原腹地的人们来说,这些奶食才更贴近他们原本的生活。
This is a Mongolian restaurant in downtown Beijing. The mouth-watering roast lamb back is the top choice for dinners here. It easily reminds us of the food lifestyle on the grassland, but to people living in the depth of the grassland, milk products are more close to their real life.
雨让气温降到了冰点。二姐在灌木里发现了走失的羊羔。这些牛羊是家里的财产,也是牧人生命的一部分。
Rain brings the temperatures down to freezing. Mengke's second elder sister has found the lost lamb in the bush. Lamb tock are family assets and part of the nomads' life.
孟克换上了过冬的新袍子。热茶和奶豆腐让孟克并不觉得冷。这些奶食将持续不断地提供热量,足够支持他一上午的放牧。望远镜是爷爷当年的战利品。孟克三岁时失去父亲,从小跟着爷爷学习放牧。爷爷告诉孟克,能做好一个牧民就很好了。手持套马杆,纵身跃上马背,孟克觉得自己充满力量。
Mengke has changed into his new winter robe. Hot tea and milk curd keep him warm, and the milk products will continually provide calories to sustain the entirely morning's herding. The telescope is the legacy of his grandfather's. Mengke lost his father at the age of three. He learned to herd with his grandfather. His grandfather has told him that it's good enough to be a qualified herdsman. Host poling in hands, Mengke threw himself on the horse, feeling full of strength.