舌尖上的中国英文版第三集：转化的灵感
Wine is probably the earliest case of how people transform food with microorganisms. Huangjiu, literally meaning yellow wine brewed from rice, is one of the oldest wine in the world. It's the morning of Lidong, the start of winter. It has started to drizzle in Shaoxing. It's a good sign for wine makers. Yeast favors the long but mild coldness of winter in Jiangnan, south of the lower Yangtze valley.
在酒厂的老车间里，师傅们进进出出，准备着祭祀用的贡品。今天是请酒神的日子，没有人怠慢。即便是最好的酿酒师傅，也无法保证年年都能酿出好酒，因为有捉摸不定的天、风、空气，还有菌。每一年的仪式都是酿酒师们对自然表达的一种尊重。
The wine makers go in and out of the wine workshop getting ready for tributes of the sacrifice. This is the day to worship the god of wine; no one dares to slight it, even the best wine maker can not ensure he can brew the best wine every year due to the capricious weather, wind, air and fungi. Every year, the sacrifice is for the wine makers to show their reverence for nature.
绍兴的黄酒冬酿即将开始。和绍兴处在同一纬度线上同属古越地区的安徽省休宁县，73岁的陈进顺也在忙着酿造自家的糯米酒。对于老人来说，做酒算不上一件难事。
Winter brewing is about to begin in Shaoxing, also located in the Guyuan region, Xiuning of Anhui is on the same latitude as Shaoxing. 73 years old Cheng Jingshun is busy brewing homemade glutinous rice wine. Brewing wine isn't difficult for old people.
富庶的江南地区，稻米是生活中不可缺少的部分。年前正是农闲，做几坛米酒祭神敬祖、招待客人、犒劳自己，都是自然不过的事。
In the abundant Jiangnan, rice is an indispensable part of life here. It's only natural to make several jars of wine to treat them and treat the guests as well as worship gods during the slack season of farming.
蚕茧般的酒曲是酿酒的灵魂，可以把它理解成接上了菌的种子。这些稻粉和辣蓼草的混合体，里面沉睡者形形色色的发酵菌，等待合适的时机苏醒。
The cocoon shaped Jiuqu or fermentation starter, is the soul of wine making. Jiuqu is considered to be "the seed of yeast". A variety of the yeasts are laying in the mixture of rice powder and red….herbs. They are waiting for the perfect time to wake up.
陈进顺把碾碎的酒曲均匀地和糯米拌在一起。酒曲是中国人了不起的发明，是人们试图捕捉和驯化微生物的最古老而有效的尝试。这是酿酒中最重要的一步，它们将带来转化中最神奇的部分。
Cheng mixes the crushed Jiuqu with glutinous rice. Jiuqu is a great invention of the Chinese people, the most ancient and effective attempt of human beings at taming microorganisms. This is the most important step of making wine which will bring about the most magical part of the transformation.
拌好的糯米被拨出一个深深的酒窝，再把指缝间的每一粒米都抹进缸中，撒上最后一把酒曲。之后的一切，都要交给时间了。那些霉菌就会把糯米中的淀粉变成糖，而酵母菌们负责把糖变成酒精。在黑暗中，仿佛传来发酵菌们欢快的歌声。时间越久，酒越醇香。黄酒绵长而厚重，中国人可以从这一种饮品里同时品味出“柔”和“刚”两种境界。
A deep hole is dug in the well mixed rice. Not a single grain of rice will be wasted. To distribute the last handful of Jiuqu powder, all the procedures are finished. Now we will just let time deal with the rest of the work. The moulds will change the starch into sugar. The yeast will turn the sugar into alcohol. We can almost hear the hilarious singing of yeast spreading from the darkness. The longer the time, the more fragrant the wine will become. Huangjiu's flavor is thick and strong, and it stays for long.The Chinese can taste both the "tenderness" and the "toughness" in the wine.
饮黄酒的绍兴人不温不火，他们对传统的固守也有滋有味地流淌在舌尖上。绍兴人离不开酱油，这几乎成为绍兴最醒目的一种味觉标记。什么都可以酱一酱再吃。足够的盐度可以让食物在湿潮的环境里久放不坏。在酱油里翻滚过的任何食物都被赋予了浓重的酱香味，它们被本地人称作“家乡菜”。
Huangjiu-drinking Shaoxing people are mild and moderate, and their persistence to the tradition has allowed them to enjoy the time on their flavor.Almost every household in Shaoxing has soy sauce. Soy sauce is a must in the lives of the Shaoxing people, which has already become the most distinctive taste identity of Shaoxing. All the food can be braised in soy sauce. Enough salt allows food to stay fresh in humidity. Food rolled in soy sauce gives us a special aroma. Local people call it the "cuisine of home".
这里是自古的繁荣富庶之地。如今，许多人家仍然乐于枕河而居，过闲适的日子。
Historically, Shaoxing has been a prosperous and abundant land. Even today, many people love to reside by the river enjoying a relaxed life.
城外的安昌古镇，街市临水而建。正是做腊味的季节，长短的竹竿上彰显出富足。安昌的腊肠在中国的江浙一带很有名气。腊肠浓厚的滋味很大一部分要归功于当地酿造的酱油。酱园里，露天的空场上排列着上百只硕大的酱缸。五十六岁的丁国云依然身手矫健。酱料粘稠、厚重，需要人力定时的上下翻动，酱缸内的发酵才会均匀。在这些酱缸里，微生物的世界互相制约，此消彼长。
The ancient town of Anchang, outside Shaoxing city, is built along the river. It's the season for making preserved meats. Bamboo poles of different length display their abundance. The sausage of Anchang is very famous in Zhejiang. Its good flavor is largely attributed to the locally brewed sauce. Dozens of giant jars standing in the yard of sauce shop. 56-year-old Ding Guoyun still works vigorously. The sauce is thick and stinky. Workers have to stir it with the fixed schedule to ensure the fermentation takes place evenly within the jar, and within the jar the microorganisms will restricted one another, one kind's lose is another's gain.
酱缸修修补补用了几十年。阳光的暴晒能够增加菌的活力，但是雨水可能会搞砸一切。酱缸的帽子不时地被拿下来扣上去，时间就在这反复的声响中流走。
The jars have been through many repairs during the past several decades. The direct exposure in the sun can greatly stimulate the vitality of yeast, but rain could ruin everything. Time slips always in the repeated sound of lids of jars, being moved away and put back.
“中国的酱”，在人类的发酵史上独树一帜，数千年间，它成就了中国人餐桌上味道的基础。
The sauce of China started the trend of human beings' history of fermentation. Several thousands of years had passed, and it has become a fundamental flavor on dinning tables in China.
在中国的北方，酱的意味更加直接。王月英家的酱缸里只剩下一层缸底。足够的盐度，让酱在严冬中也不容易结冻。在寒冷的东北，长久以来盐以酱的形式成为人们身体和心理的一种依靠。
In north China, the meaning of sauce is more straightforward. Only a little paste is left in the jar of Wang Yuying's. Enough salt ensures the sauce won't get frozen in sever winter. In chilly northeast China, quiet a long time, salt in a form of sauce, has provided a physical and psychological support for people.
再过三个月就是下新酱的时候了，但是准备的工作却要从现在开始。煮熟的黄豆在锅里直接被捣烂。在中国的东北地区，人们做酱只用大豆这一种材料。这样的单一也是一种奢侈。
3 months later, it will be time to make new soybean paste, but the preparation work will start now. The cooked soybeans are smashed in the pot. In northeast China, soybean is the only ingredient for making sauce. The monopoly is also a luxury.
黑龙江有中国最肥沃的黑土地，这里的耕种和收获急促而短暂，却能出产最好的大豆。温暖的火炕上，六只手合力把豆泥堆砌成型。酱的味道甚至可以成为衡量一个主妇合格与否的标准。捆绑成结实的酱坯被挂上墙。在之后的两个月里，它们静静的发酵，等到来年春天，再开始更深入的转化。
Heilongjiang province boasts the most fertile black soil in China. The farm and the harvest here is short and hasty, but the place produces the best soybeans. On the heated bed, six hands work together to pile the smashed beans into shape. The taste of the paste can even be the standard to measure whether a housewife is qualified. The tightly wrapped warm paste is hung on the wall. Over the course of the next 2 months, it will quietly ferment, and when spring arrives, the transformation will get even more dramatic.
冬季在强大的蒙古高压的笼罩之下，北方的寒冷甚于版图中的其他地区。面对严寒，人总有变通。在腌菜缸中经历30多天复杂的发酵进程，白菜获得了重生。北方人对酸菜的情感毫无造作。在近7个月的寒冷季节里，这种腌菜几乎代表了一种生活的方式。用力攥出菜叶中发酵的酸水，一来去除苦涩的味道，二来使酸菜本身的质地更加脆韧。酸菜散发出令人愉悦的开胃的酸香味，那是乳酸的味道。发酵后，草酸被分解，产生了肽和氨基酸，这一切都带来鲜美的风味。对于酸菜来说，绝佳的搭配是和猪肉在一起。酸菜巧妙地化解了猪肉的油腻。东北人的柴锅里不流于精致的外在形式，它们的内容有如东北人的性格----豪爽大方。
Under the powerful Siberian high winter in north China. It is more unbearable than any other places. Facing the sever chill, people will learn to adapt themselves. After a more than 30-day complicated fermentation, the Chinese cabbage in the jar has gained a whole new life. The northern people have an unaffected love for pickled cabbage. In the winter which lasts for nearly 7 months, the pickles have almost become a lifestyle. Squeezing out the sour water in the leaves, not only get rid of the bitterness but also make the cabbage taste crispier, the pickled cabbage gives out a pleasant and savory sour fragment that is the smell of lactic acid. After the fermentation, oxalate acid is discomposed. When dissolved in water, protein gives out peptide and amino acid which bring out this great flavor. The best partner of pickle cabbage is pork. Pickled cabbage subtly mutualizes the natural grease of pork. The caldron of northern Chinese doesn't enjoy a delicate look, but they content inside the caldron is just like the personality of the locals—straightforward and generous.
今天，孩子们要回家看望父母。一顿酸菜馅的饺子将成为今晚餐桌上的主角。
Today, the children are all come back to visit their parents. The pickled stuffed cabbage dumplings will be the main course for dinner.
时间流转，生命红火，这一年就这样过去了。
Time flies as usual, and life remains prosperous. Another year has passed.
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