舌尖上的中国英文版第三集：转化的灵感
Out the grassland, herding is substituted by farming. Without the conditions for grazing cattle and sheep, people choose to cultivate the limited land. Dairy products have failed to hold this position in kitchens of central China. People living in farming culture have shifted their eyes to other plant resources to obtain precious protein. It was revolutionary for the Chinese to gain protein from plants. To the Chinese who historically had insufficient meat supply, the discovery is wisdom as well as luck.
在浙江天台山的古老寺庙中，僧人们正准备开始他们一天中重要的一餐，修行者的食谱是全素的。修行的生活很清苦，即便是进餐，也是一种功课。事实上只有中国的汉地佛教，才真正将食素作为一种戒律来遵守。这深刻影响了一千多年间中国人的素食传统。
In the ancient temple of Mount Tiantai, the monks are preparing the most important meal of a day. Monk has vegetarian diet. The monastic life is poor and simple, even dinning is a practice of Buddhism. In fact, only Han Buddhism in China includes vegetarian diet as its religious disciplines. That has deeply impact to traditional vegetarianism in China over the past 1000 years.
来源于植物的豆腐，既符合严苛的心理戒律，同时又能在营养上给予身体最大的支持。在蛋白质的提供上，大豆食品是惟一能够媲美肉类的植物性食材。对于素食者来说，这相当完美。
Originating from plants, tofu can follow the strict disciplines, and it provides the best possible nutrition for the body. Soybean is the only plant food that matches meat for protein quality. So to vegetarians, it's perfect despite its plainness.
中国的豆腐在“清寡”中暗含了某种精神层面的气质。古人称赞豆腐有“和德”。吃豆腐的人能安于清贫，而做豆腐的人也懂得“顺其自然”。
Chinese tofu is given a certain spiritual quality. The ancient people praised it saying tofu has merits. Those who have tofu are contained within simple life, and those who make tofu understand as to let life take its course.
安徽南部，独特的地理环境和温润的气候促成了人们恬淡保守的气质，也孕育出了特有的食物。这些附着白色菌丝的奇特食物，它们的实质是豆腐。还没到能够大量生产的季节，方兴玉家的毛豆腐奇货可居，在中午之前就会告罄。
The unique geological environment and mild weather in southern Anhui have form calm and conserved qualities in its people, though so produced unique food. The strange food covered with white hypha is actually tofu. As the season for mass production has not yet arrive, the hairy tofu in Fang Xingyu's shop is a rare commodity worth holding. It will be sold out before noon.
豆腐上浓密的绒毛带给人们丰富的联想，比如说动物。这里的确有生命。白色的细丝是毛霉菌的菌丝，是它们赋予豆腐新的活力。很难想象这种食物是如何诞生的。
The heavy hair covering tofu launches our imagination. We link it , for example, to animal, and there is indeed a life in it. The white thin hair is the hypha of mucor, which gives tofu a new vitality. It’s hard to believe how this food is actually made.
如今，方兴玉把豆腐坊的大部分工作交给了大女儿。作为家中的长女，妈妈把她和豆腐坊的未来联系在一起。
Today, Fang Xingyu has handed over most of the workshop to her elder daughter. Fang has begun to associate her future of the shop with her.
豆浆的表皮渐渐凝结，这是大豆富含油脂的表现。但是对于制作毛豆腐来讲，油脂是多余的。
The surface of soybean milk gradually coagulates, which shows the soybean is rich in oil, but to produce hairy tofu, oil is not required.
油豆皮被晾晒在竹筷上，风干后成为毛豆腐的副产品，它们是另一种质感的美食。制作毛豆腐的关键在于用自制的发酵“酸水”来点卤。酸性物质可以同样让大豆蛋白凝固，但是“酸水”更大的意义在于伴随着点卤的过程，其中的微生物们也随之流入，像种子一样被埋植进豆腐当中。
Tofu skin is hung on the chopstick when air dried and become a by-product of hairy tofu. In other delicacy with a totally different texture, the key to produce hairy tofu is to add self-made "sour juice" into soymilk for fermentation. The sour substance can make soy protein clot. What's more important is that microorganisms flow into the milk with the pouring of sour juice. It's just like burying seeds into tofu.
在中国的任何地方，做豆腐都是极其辛苦的工作。餐桌上，一家人陆续进入和离开，最后回来的是姐姐。妹妹要陪姐姐吃完已经冷了的一餐。对于妈妈和姐姐来说，生活的很多部分已经和豆腐坊牢牢长在了一起。
No matter wherever you are in China making tofu is an extremely hard work. Family members sit down and out and leave the dinning table in succession. The elder sister is always the last one to come. Her sister will accompany her to finish the already cold dishes.To the mother and the elder sister, the tofu workshop has already become a major part of their lives.
方兴玉是不会在湿热的夏天做毛豆腐的。“桑拿天”里，人们很难控制豆腐发酵的走向。但是在其它的季节里，徽州温润的环境却能引导微生物们走上发酵的正轨。方兴玉希望与这有关的一切，自己的女儿都能够学习和领悟到。
Fang will not make hairy tofu in the sultry summer.We can't control the fermentation of tofu in sauna days.But in other seasons, the warm and humid environment in Huizhou makes microorganisms ferment properly. Fang hopes her daughter can learn and understand everything about making tofu.
这些绒毛，它们是霉菌、酵母菌和细菌们是否和谐生长的指标。这直接关系到发酵的进程以及最终味道的鲜美与否。
The hair is actually fungi, the index showing whether the yeast and germs are growing harmoniously. It decides the progress of fermentation and whether the final product is delicious or not.
深谙美食的徽州人是毛豆腐的知音。吃法可繁可简。在老徽州眼中，一点辣酱就可以让炭火上的豆腐锦上添花了。豆腐的内部已经大为不同了，毛霉菌分泌蛋白酶，让大豆蛋白降解成小分子的胨类、多肽和氨基酸。这一系列转化，赋予了豆腐异常的鲜美，这种浓郁的风味被徽州人称作“家乡的味道”。
Huizhou people who are gourmets can truly appreciate hairy tofu. You can have it in a simple or complicated way. In the mind of old Huizhou people, a little bit of chilly sauce goes best with coal roast tofu. The interia of tofu is completely different. Mucor secretes proteinase making soy protein degrades into smaller molecules of peptones, polypeptide and amino acid. This series of transformations give tofu an incomparable flavor. Huizhou people call this strong flavor—a flavor of hometown.
菌丝间细小的颗粒是散落的孢子，那是毛豆腐成熟的标志。聪明的中国人对这些微小生物的运用得心应手。事实上，这种转化的智慧在更为久远的年代里，就已经熠熠生辉了。
The small grains among the hypha are spores, and an indication of the hairy tofu is properly matured. The clever Chinese are profession in using the microorganisms. In fact, the wisdom of transformation sparkled early in ancient times.
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